116 MEMOIR OF DR. HARVEY. 



his holiness to walk over to the pilgrims, whose right feet had 

 previously been bared by another set of bishops, the left feet 

 not requiring washing. A gold basin and ewer were then 

 brought, and the Pope poured water on a foot, wiped it, and 

 went on. We waited to see him do two, when the crowd gave 

 token of moving, and we followed it, for we had next to run a 

 considerable distance up sundry nights of steps to a room in the 

 Vatican, where the pilgrims were to dine. Here was an awful 

 crush, but we contrived to find tolerable places. A table was 

 spread out, on which were gilt figures of all the apostles, each 

 about twelve inches high, and in the centre a figure of the 

 lamb. Presently came the pilgrims and sat down ; after them 

 the Pope and his helpers. First he poured water on each of 

 their hands ; the basin being held by one bishop and the golden 

 ewer by another. Next a bishop on his knees presented a plate 

 of soup to the Pope, who took it, and handed it to a pilgrim. 

 Then another bishop did likewise, and so it went on. The Pope 

 thus handed seven courses to each pilgrim, having first received 

 the dishes from a kneeling prelate. Then he washed his hands 

 and went away, and so did we. And now I'll go to bed, as it 

 is Good Friday morning. 



18th. I have seen a great many queer things since I wrote 

 last. On Friday we went in a shower of rain, under an 

 umbrella, into a cabbage garden, where, after some groping, 

 we found a wall faced with rough stone, continued till it ends 

 in a natural rock. What was it ? The Tarpeian ! — down which 

 they throw cabbage-stumps in these degenerate days. Many 

 of the relics here are equally well worth seeing. Not so others. 

 The view from the tower on the Capitoline Hill is still a noble 

 one. There be ruins, mountains, a plain reaching to the present 

 city, and the Tiber. Two favourite trees here are the cypress 

 and a species of pine, which I do not remember to have seen 

 before. Its top is flat and umbrella-form, and when large looks 

 remarkably well. We are nearly tired of seeing churches. 

 They meet you at every corner. All of them are more or 

 less splendid inside, and many are fine buildings without; 

 but on the whole less striking than the Gothic structures 

 of the north. There is not a Gothic one amongst the whole 

 365 which they count in Eome. To-day, by mere accident, 

 we got into an Armenian church at the commencement of 



