LEAVE OF ABSENCE. 119 



different mitres and his grand tiara, blazing with jewels and 

 gold. Then the Pope himself, carried in a crimson chair on 

 men's shoulders, under a silver and gold tissue canopy, sup- 

 ported by sixteen golden poles, and having at each side a man 

 bearing a pole with a huge fan of ostrich feathers. After his 

 holiness came his personal attendants, which closed the proces- 

 sion. They came up the whole aisle of the church accompanied 

 by a military band, and soldiers ranged at each side. A very 

 splendid procession, but, to my heretical eyes, rather unseemly 

 in the house of God. As they passed the altar they made 

 homage, the bishops and cardinals doffing their mitres ; and 

 when the Pope came up and was set down, he took off his triple 

 crown, putting on in exchange a gold tissue mitre ; then he 

 knelt down and said a prayer, the cardinals, &c, kneeling about 

 him. He then rose, and was led to the smaller throne, where he sat 

 down, and while the choirs were chanting, received the homage 

 of his court ; the privileged kissing his hand, the lesser his knee, 

 and the least his foot — a strange place, it seemed to me, for a 

 Christian bishop to choose in which to receive honour from man ! 

 When part of the service went on he removed to the higher throne, 

 where he remained seated the greater part of the time. Occasion- 

 ally books were brought to him, and he read a few words, to which 

 the choir responded. At length he came forward to the great 

 altar to celebrate the mass. Here we had an excellent view of 

 him, as we were standing just below the altar. On the elevation 

 of the Host, every one knelt — cardinals, prelates, guards — all, 

 save the heretical English, who stood stock still. We were, 

 however, too numerous a body to feel ashamed of our conduct. 

 On the whole, I am disappointed with the ceremonies of the 

 Catholic Church. To me they are not impressive, for they are 

 not simple enough in my mind to suit the majesty of the subject. 

 What are all these fine clothes and candles and ostrich feathers ? 

 With a semi-barbarous people 'tis all very well ; and the kissing 

 of the books and the bowing to the altar ; but when one thinks 

 for a moment, while it is going on, of the hook on which all this 

 parade is said to be founded, and remembers our Lord's discourse 

 with the woman of Samaria, the very splendour of the scene, 

 instead of impressing you with holy awe and feelings suitable 

 to the worship of God, disgusts you with its littleness, and 

 wearies you with its mummery. My admiration of the Keformers 



