TOUR IN THE UNITED STATES. 175 



everything except Repeal, which I could not persuade him was 

 a bad thing, nor could I make him think it was right for Irish 

 gold to go to England and be spent there. He had been here 

 but two years, and had learned to spit and to guess. I had a 

 walk through the market, bought three peaches, halfpenny each, 

 saw hampers full of cucumbers and tomatoes, some very large 

 egg-plant fruit, sweet potatoes and other foreign-looking things. 

 At half-past eight started by rail for Utica, and arrived there 

 about two o'clock p.m. Seventy-eight miles — cost lis. 6d. 

 The road goes along the valley of the Mohawk, through charm- 

 ing scenery, of which the railway can give but a very confined 

 view. Utica is a well-built, handsome town, with a good hotel. 

 I took a car for 10s. 6d., which brought me here (Trenton) and 

 landed me at a snug little inn in the heart of the woods and 

 close to the waterfall. The road here was delightful as to 

 views, but very ill kept as to surface : a part laid with planks ; 

 very smooth, like so much wooden pavement, then came sand, 

 and then rough, unbroken stones and ruts. Part was through 

 genuine forest, full of tall old trees of various kinds, many dead 

 and dying; hemlock-pines in all stages of decay, standing, 

 leaning, and fallen — all huddled together in picturesque fashion. 

 Notwithstanding the badness of the road, I greatly enjoyed the 

 drive througli the trees, having the advantage of the slanting 

 light of afternoon shining brightly through the leaves, which 

 here and there showed symptoms of red and yellow. I got 

 here about five o'clock, and finding that supper was not till 

 half-past seven, I set out to explore the Falls. We entered a 

 grove, found a path conducting to a very steep flight of steps, 

 descended then down another, till at last we safely landed on the 

 rocky bed of the Mohawk, and heard the sound of a distant 

 unseen fall. Here the river has forced its way between two 

 nearly perpendicular walls of limestone, some 200 feet high, 

 covered with hanging woods of the most beautiful variety of 

 trees. Some huge lignum vitae, as big as our tallest larches, 

 particularly delighted me. Moreover the hemlocks were very 

 picturesque. Perhaps Sir W. Scott's description of the retreat 

 of Balfour of Burley will give you the best idea of this singular 

 spot. If you knew the approach to Pfeffer's baths in Switzer- 

 land I should quote it. I had also a memory of the Birks of 

 Aberfeldie. The path goes on by ledges, assisted here and 



