TOUR IN THE UNITED STATES. Ill 



by two large vessels under full sail — studding sails set — looking 

 very lovely, and a number of fishing-smacks with white square 

 sails. I had no time to go down to the shore, as we left Buffalo 

 at nine, and arrived here at half-past ten — twenty-two miles. 



So here we are at last at Niagara, and I am sitting by candle- 

 light this blessed Sunday evening, up three pair of stairs in a 

 huge hotel, my window looking out on the Rapids, and the sound 

 of many waters close underneath, with the bright stars aloft, 

 but, alas ! no moon. If there was I should probably not be 

 here writing. 



Immediately on my arrival I strolled out without being- 

 plagued by either guides or beggars, to find my way alone to 

 what was to be seen. It was a brilliant, warm September day, 

 and just the proper time to go to church ; but though I observed 

 two buildings with steeples thereon, I did not stop to inquire 

 what was the doctrine taught within them, but turned towards 

 a bridge leading to Goat Island, in the belief that I -should pro- 

 bably find another sort of a church there which might be as 

 profitable and more agreeable at the moment. 



Directly I was crossing the Rapids above the Falls, which are 

 like those of Doonass, 1 spread over a surface, perhaps more than 

 a hundred times as great — that is to say — here is a broad river, 

 with water clear as crystal, tumbling and dashing over rocks 

 on a gradual descent of more than a mile, perhaps two or three 

 from the point where it flows smoothly, till it finds an end in the 

 precipitous leap of the Falls. As yet no Falls were visible, but 

 their position was indicated by a cloud of spray, and their 

 proximity by a steady sound. 



Goat Island in mid-channel is as large, at the least, as our Innis- 

 fallen, and is beautifully wooded with a variety of trees, amongst 

 which are large lignum vitas. These are the conical fir-trees 

 which you see in views of Niagara, and tossed about as they are 

 — aslant, or half-rooted up, and some with dead tops or boughs, 

 — they are very striking. I quickly found a path to the right, 

 leading through the woods in the direction of the Falls. These, 

 however, were still out of sight, till at length you turn a corner, 

 when at once you get a full view of the American Fall. 



Such was my first introduction ; and it has all the charm to 



1 On the Shannon. 



N 



