I860.] Geography. 97 



tion of his native tongue. Thinking that the dialects of Central Asia 

 would assist him in this scientific research, he settled for four years 

 at Constantinople, studying as a Mollah or Divinity Student in the 

 colleges there. Thence he passed into Asia, arrived at Teheran on 

 the 13th of June, 1862, and at last, after nine months' sojourn there, 

 joined a party of twenty-four dervishes who were returning from Mecca 

 to their own country. This even was a matter of some difficulty, owing 

 to his dress and colour. In the former matter he soon conformed 

 himself to the habits of his companions, and became even the dirtiest 

 of the fraternity. Thenceforth he journeyed onwards in the disguise 

 of a Moslem pilgrim, or holy man, whose blessing was craved by, and 

 for a consideration granted to, many a robber chieftain, and whom 

 women of the greatest beauty, and girls even, desired to embrace. 

 With a pilgrim's staff and a copy of the Koran he crossed the desert 

 to Khiva. He stayed among the Turcomans a month, observing the 

 extraordinary liberality and hospitality, combined with cruelty and 

 tyranny, which make up their character. His visit to Khiva is not so 

 interesting, since it is well known, from having been visited by Captain 

 Abbott and Mr. Thompson. Continued suspicions pursued the 

 unfortunate traveller on his road. He was constantly being taken for 

 an English, Eussian, or Persian spy. At Khiva, the Prime Minister 

 had been at Constantinople, and consequently this great authority was 

 easily persuaded that the traveller, who had acquired a surprising 

 command of Arabic, and a thorough knowledge of the Mussulman 

 ceremonial (which he exemplified by blessing the Geographical Society 

 in true Oriental style), was really what he professed to be, a true 

 Mollah from Constantinople, seeking the tomb of some holy man. 

 From Khiva they journeyed to Bokhara, along the left bank of the 

 Oxus. In order to escape a party of Turcomans coming to plunder 

 them, they were obliged to flee into the desert called Djan-bateran 

 (the destroyer of life), where they encountered horrible thirst, and from 

 this cause lost two of their party. The description of the death of one 

 of these men, and of the fear of a like fate that invaded M. Vambery, 

 is worthy of the attention of sensation novelists, so horrible and so 

 uncommon does it appear. In Bokhara our traveller encountered 

 fresh danger from political espionage, but by a little tact and impu- 

 dence he compelled the vizier to acknowledge him as a renowned der- 

 vish, holding out threats of eternal punishment if he suspected him. 

 The reigning prince Moozaffar-ed-din, son of the murderer of Conolly 

 and Stoddart, is described as a man of a pleasing countenance and 

 good disposition, " but forced for political reasons to commit many 

 tyrannical acts." After a month at Bokhara, just as he was departing, 

 he was summoned to an interview with the monarch himself, with 

 whom again a good share of audacity succeeded in procuring recogni- 

 tion and dismissal. Thence the journey to Samarcand was through a 

 thickly-peopled and well-wooded country, abounding in villages and 

 towns, but the capital itself was disappointing, not only for its present 

 insignificance, but also for the few relics of its former reputed splen- 

 dour. The Medresses or colleges were the most remarkable buildings, 

 and one erected by the wife of Timour surpassed every other building 



VOL. II. H 



