ALLIGATORS. 145 



bright moon of these climates glances on the sleeping forms 

 around, to look out upon the attitudes of profound repose 

 both men and beasts assume. There being no danger from 

 •wild animals on such a night, the fires are allowed almost 

 to go out; and, as there is no fear of hungry dogs coming 

 over sleepers and devouring the food, or quietly eating up 

 the poor fellows' blankets, which at best were but greasy 

 skins, which sometimes happened in the villages, the pic- 

 ture was one of perfect peace. 



The cooking is usually done in the natives' own style; 

 and, as they carefully wash the dishes, pots, and the hands 

 before handling food, it is by no means despicable. Some- 

 times alterations are made at my suggestion, and then they 

 believe that they can cook in thorough white man's fashion. 

 The cook always comes in for something left in the pot, so 

 all are eager to obtain the office. 



1 taught several of them to wash my shirts, and they 

 did it well, though their teacher had never been taught 

 that work himself. Frequent changes of linen and sunning 

 of my blanket kept me more comfortable than might have 

 been anticipated, and I feel certain that the lessons of 

 cleanliness rigidly instilled by my mother in childhood 

 helped to maintain that respect which these people enter- 

 tain for European ways. It is questionable if a descent to 

 barbarous ways ever elevates a man in the eyes of savages. 



Part of our company marched along the banks with the 

 oxen, and part went in the canoes, but our pace was regu- 

 lated by the speed of the men on shore. Their course was 

 rather difficult, on account of the numbers of departing and 

 re-entering branches of the Leeambye, which they had to 

 avoid or wait at till we ferried them over. The number 

 of alligators is prodigious, and in this river they are more 

 savage than in some others. Many children are carried 

 off annually at Sesheke and ether towns; for, notwith- 

 Htanding the danger, when they go down for water they 

 almost always must play a while. This reptile is said by the 

 natives to strike the victim with his tail, then drag him in 



