420 FEARS OF THE MAKOLOLO. 



him to say that this last plant flourishes, but the wet of one of the 

 two rainy seasons with which this country is favored sometimes 

 proves troublesome to the grower. I am not aware whether wheat 

 has ever been tried, but I saw both figs and grapes bearing well. 

 The great complaint of all cultivators is the want of a good road 

 to carry their produce to market. Here all kinds of food are re- 

 markably cheap. 



Farther on we left the mountainous country, and, as we de- 

 scended toward the west coast, saw the lands assuming a more 

 sterile, uninviting aspect. On our right ran the River Senza, 

 which nearer the sea takes the name of Bengo. It is about fifty 

 yards broad, and navigable for canoes. The low plains adjacent 

 to its banks are protected from inundation by embankments, and 

 the population is entirely occupied in raising food and fruits for 

 exportation to Loanda by means of canoes. The banks are in- 

 fested by myriads of the most ferocious musquitoes I ever met. 

 Not one of our party could get a snatch of sleep. I was taken 

 into the house of a Portuguese, but was soon glad to make my es- 

 cape and lie across the path on the lee side of the fire, where the 

 smoke blew over my body. My host wondered at my want of 

 taste, and I at his want of feeling ; for, to our astonishment, he 

 and the other inhabitants had actually become used' to what was 

 at least equal to a nail through the heel of one's boot, or the 

 tooth-ache. 



As we were now drawing near to the sea, my companions were 

 looking at every thing in a serious light. One of them asked me 

 if we should all have an opportunity of watching each other at 

 Loanda. " Suppose one went for water, would the others see if 

 he were kidnapped?" I replied, " I see what you are driving at ; 

 and if you suspect me, you may return, for I am as ignorant of 

 Loanda as you are ; but nothing will happen to you but what 

 happens to myself. We have stood by each other hitherto, and 

 will do so to the last." The plains adjacent to Loanda are some- 

 what elevated and comparatively sterile. On coming across these 

 we first beheld the sea : my companions looked upon the bound- 

 less ocean with awe. On describing their feelings afterward, they 

 remarked that " we marched along with our father, believing that 

 what the ancients had always told us was true, that the world has 

 no end ; but all at once the world said to us, ' I am finished : 



