Ciiap. XIX. GUIDES PREPAID. 355 



CHAPTEE XIX. 



Guides prepaid — Bark canoes — Deserted by guides — Mistakes respecting the 

 Coanza — Feelings of freed slaves — Gardens and villages — Native traders 



— A grave — Valley of the Quango — Bamboo — White larvae used as 

 food — Bashinje insolence — A posing question — The chief Sansawe — 

 His hostility — Pass him safely — The river Quango — Chiefs mode of 

 dressing his hair — Opposition — Opportune aid by Cypriano — His gene- 

 rous hospitality — Ability of half-castes to read and write — Books and 

 images — Marauding party burned in the grass — Arrive at Cassange — A 

 good supper — Kindness of Captain Neves — Portuguese curiosity and 

 questions — Anniversary of the Resurrection — No prejudice against colour 



— Country around Cassange —Sell Sekeletu's ivory — Makololo's surprise 

 at the high price obtained — Proposal to return home, and reasons — Sol- 

 dier-guide — Hill Kasala— Tala Mungongo, village of — Civility of Ba- 

 songo — True negroes — A field of wheat — Carriers — Sleeping-places — 

 Fever — Enter district of Ambaca — Good fruits of Jesuit teaching — The 

 tampan; its bite — Universal hospitality of the Portuguese — A tale of 

 the Mambari — Exhilarating effects of highland scenery — District of 

 Golungo Alto — Want of good roads — Fertility — Forests of gigantic 

 timber — Native carpenters — Coffee estate — Sterility of country near the 

 coast — Mosquitoes — Fears of the Makololo — Welcome by Mr. Gabriel 

 to Loanda. 



1\ih. — Ionga Panza's sons agreed to act as guides into the 

 territory of the Portuguese if I would give them the shell given 

 by Sliinte. I was strongly averse to this, and especially to give 

 it beforehand ; but yielded to the entreaty of my people to 

 appear as if showing confidence in these hopeful youths. They 

 urged that they wished to leave the shell with their wives, as a 

 sort of payment to them for enduring their husbands' absence 

 so long. Having delivered the precious shell, we went west- 

 by-north to the river Chikapa, which here (lat. 10° 22' S.) is 

 forty or fifty yards wide, and at present was deep ; it was seen 

 flowing over a rocky broken cataract with great noise about 

 half a mile above our ford. We were ferried over in a canoe, 

 made out of a single piece of bark sewed together at the ends, 

 and having sticks placed in it at different parts to act as ribs. 

 The word Chikapa means bark or skin ; and as this is the only 

 river in which we saw tin's kind of canoe used, and we heard 



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