388 FEARS OF THE MAKOLOLO. Chap. XDv. 



that tliis last plant flourishes, but the wet of one of the two rainy 

 seasons with which this country is favoured, sometimes proves 

 troublesome to the grower. I am not aware whether wheat has 

 ever been tried, but I saw both figs and grapes bearing well. The 

 great complaint of all cultivators is the want of a good road to 

 carry their produce to market. Here all kinds of food are re- 

 markably cheap. 



Farther on we left the mountainous country, and, as we de- 

 scended towards the west coast, saw the lands assuming a more 

 sterile uninviting aspect. On our right ran the river Senza, which 

 nearer the sea takes the name of Bengo. It is about fifty yards 

 broad, and navigable for canoes. The low plains adjacent to its 

 banks are protected from inundation by embankments, and the 

 population is entirely occupied in raishig food and fruits for ex- 

 portation to Loanda by means of canoes. The banks are infested 

 by myriads of the most ferocious mosquitoes I ever met. Not 

 one of our party could get a snatch of sleep. I was taken into 

 the house of a Portuguese, but was soon glad to make my escape 

 and he across the path on the lee side of the fire, where the 

 smoke blew over my body. My host wondered at my want of 

 taste, and I at his want of feeling, for, to our astonishment, he, 

 and the other inhabitants, had actually become used to what was 

 at least equal to a nail through the heel of one's boot, or the 

 tooth-ache. 



As we were now drawing near to the sea, my companions were 

 looking at everything in a serious light. One of them asked me 

 if we should all have an opportunity of watching each other at 

 Loanda. " Suppose one went for water, would the others see if he 

 were kidnapped?" I replied, "I see what you are driving at; 

 and if you suspect me, you may return, for I am as ignorant of 

 Loanda as you are : but nothing will happen to you but what 

 happens to myself. We have stood by each other hitherto, and 

 will do so to the last." The plains adjacent to Loanda are some- 

 what elevated and comparatively sterile. On coming across these 

 we first beheld the sea : my companions looked upon the bound- 

 less ocean with awe. On describing then* feelings afterwards, they 

 remarked that " we marched along with our father, believing that 

 what the ancients had always told us was true, that the world has 

 no end ; but all at once the world said to us, ' I am finished ; 



