Chap. XXII. CROSSING THE QUANGO. 441 



luxurious climate as much as it is possible for man to do. I have 

 often thought, in travelling through their land, that it presents 

 pictures of beauty winch angels might enjoy. How often have I 

 beheld, in still mornings, scenes the very essence of beauty, and all 

 bathed in a quiet air of delicious warmth ! yet the occasional soft 

 motion imparted a pleasing sensation of coolness as of a fan. 

 Green grassy meadows, the cattle feeding, the goats browsing, 

 the kids skipping, the groups of herdboys with miniature bows, 

 arrows, and spears ; the women wending their way to the river 

 with watering-pots poised jauntily on their heads ; men sewing 

 under the shady banians ; and old grey-headed fathers sitting on 

 the ground, with staff in hand, listening to the morning gossip, 

 while others carry trees or branches to repair their hedges ; and 

 all this, flooded with the bright African sunshine, and the buds 

 singing among the branches before the heat of the day has 

 become intense, form pictures which can never be forgotten. 



We were informed that a chief named Gando, living on the 

 other side of the river, having been accused of witchcraft, was 

 killed by the ordeal, and his body thrown into the Quango. 



The ferrymen demanded thirty yards of calico, but received six 

 thankfully. The canoes were wretched, carrying only two persons 

 at a time ; but my men being well acquainted with the water, we 

 all got over in about two hours and a half. They excited the 

 admiration of the inhabitants by the manner in which they 

 managed the cattle and donkeys in crossing. The most stubborn 

 of beasts found himself powerless in their hands. Five or six, 

 seizing hold on one, bundled him at once into the stream, and, in 

 tins predicament, he always thought it best policy to give in and 

 swim. The men sometimes swam along with the cattle, and forced 

 them to go on by dashing water at their heads. The difference 

 between my men and those of the native traders who accompanied 

 us, was never more apparent than now ; for while my men felt an 

 interest in everything we possessed in common, theirs were rather 

 glad when the oxen refused to cross, for, being obliged to slaughter 

 them on such occasions, the loss to their masters was a welcome 

 feast to themselves. 



On the eastern side of the Quango we passed on, without visiting 

 our friend of the conical head-dress, to the residence of some 

 Ambakistas who had crossed the river in order to secure the first 



