THE CHARMS OF NATURE. 485 



people made it impossible to secure transportation, and in such 

 cases the only thing to be done was to post a guard about the 

 packs and go on until men could be engaged to bring them 

 up. This had been the case at Kanyenje. The head man, 

 Kanyindula, came on the morning of the. doctor's departure 

 from his village with three carriers, but they demanded payment 

 in advance for their services. This was one of the tricks which a 

 traveller is not Ions; finding- out, and Livingstone knew too well 

 that he would be only the poorer by accepting them on those 

 terms, and decided to go on to a little village at the "fountain 

 eye " of the Bua, whence he sent men back for the loads. 



But the entrance in his journal of that date shows that he 

 found abundant use for even the hours which might have hung 

 very heavily on the hands of an ordinary man. His ardent love 

 for nature always came to his relief, breaking the power of the 

 innumerable annoyances of his lonely and toilsome marches. 

 His eye loved to wander over the splendid mountains, and his 

 habit of careful observation converted every scene itfto a study. 

 In this neighborhood he noticed considerable quantities of quartz 

 rock, and fragments of titaniferous iron ore, with haematite 

 changed by heat and magnetic ore ; and he thought it worthy 

 of mention that the little rivulets about the resting place flowed 

 some of them northward toward the upper part of Nyassa, and 

 others southward, making a contribution to the Loangwa and 

 finding their way to the sea with the majestic Zambesi. A 

 few lines of his written at this time exhibit the spirit of the 

 man, and gives us a glimpse of the country which will help us 

 to realize more fully his surroundings. 



" We left Bua fountain — latitude 13° 40' south — and made 

 a short march to Mokatoba, a stockaded village, where the 

 people refused to admit us till the head man came. They 

 have a little food here, and sold us some. We have been 

 on rather short commons for some time, and this made our 

 detention agreeable. We rose a little in altitude after leaving 

 this morning ; then, though in the same valley, made a little 

 descent towards the north-northwest. High winds came driv- 

 ing over the eastern range, which is called Mchinje, and 

 bring large masses of clouds, which are the rain-givers. They 

 seem to come from the southeast. The scenery of the valley is 

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