A MIDNIGHT ENCOUNTER. 515 



able streams, where splendid trees were waving their boughs 

 above the elegant green sward ; but he was parched with fever 

 and could only drag himself along. It is worth remembering, 

 however, that he noticed that nearly all the valleys he crossed 

 inclined to the Lofu,. which receives their tributaries for the 

 lake. 



On the 20th of March he entered the village of Kasonso, 

 situated in a lovely valley at the confluence of two streams. 

 This chief received him very cordially, and stood a long while 

 shaking his hand. Kasonso gave him a grand reception, but 

 another experience which made perhaps a more lasting reception 

 awaited him in the hut where he sought repose. The reader 

 has not forgotten the ants which assaulted the doctor in Angola: 

 he may imagine the consternation when about midnight he was 

 aroused by the unconscionable ravages of their counterparts 

 here in the town of Kasonso. The sufferer, who ought to be 

 competent to tell the story, declares it impossible to describe the 

 attack. He wakened covered with them ; his hair was full of 

 them ; one by one they cut into the flesh, and the more they 

 were disturbed the more vicious became their biting ; he fled 

 from the hut, but in vain : they were everywhere, they had him 

 from head to foot, and were resolved on taking their own time. 



Near the lake there was found ' large cotton-bushes of the 

 South American kind. The people were clothed in skins of 

 goats and wild animals, but the patterns were more scant, if 

 possible, than in other sections ; the kilts of the women were 

 especially diminutive. At least one object of his desire was now 

 about attained : " On the morning of the 1st of April," says 

 he, " we went along a low ridge of hills at its lowest part, and 

 soon after passing the summit the blue water loomed through 

 the trees. I was detained, but soon heard the boys firing their 

 muskets on reaching the edge of the ridge, which allowed an 

 undisturbed view." 



At last he had reached the southeastern end of Liemba, or 

 Tanganyika. They had still to descend two thousand feet before 

 reaching the level of the lake. It seemed to be about eighteen or 

 twenty miles broad, and we could see about thirty miles up to 

 the north. Four considerable rivers flow into the space before 

 us. The nearly perpendicular ridge of about two thousand feet 



