CHAPTER XXVI. 



1868. 



" Only Water " — Native Indifference — Charms of Moero — Lake Scenery— In- 

 difference of Arabs — Covetousness — The Only Lesson Learned — Kabwabwati — 

 Dreadful March — Evils of being with Arabs — Livingstone's Influence — Thiev- 

 ing Slaves — A Dead Halt — Long Delay — Yankees of Africa — Duplicity of 

 Mohamad — Desertion of Followers — Livingstone's Charity — Questionable Char- 

 ity — Justice as well as Mercy — Arab Trouble-makers — Mohammedanism Not 

 Taught — Not Adapted to Elevate Heathen — Christianity a Missionary Creed — 

 Powerlessness of Ceremonies — Power of the Word — Africans Curious and Cau- 

 tious — They Need the Gospel — Obligation of Christians — Dulness of Kabwab- 

 wati — Livingstone turns South — Arrives at Casembe's — Cordial Reception — • 

 Pleasing Recollections — Deliverances — Leopard Hunt — A Discovery — Cropped- 

 Eared Pest — Casembe's Kindness — Mohamad Bogharib — Starting for Lake 

 Bemba — Discovery of the Great Lake — Description of it — Lake Surroundings — 

 Wanyamwezi — Northward Again— Commotions — War — Delays — Reach Kab- 

 wabwati— Abominations of Slave-Trade — Battle — Evils in Camp — Wanyam- 

 wezi Women During a Battle — Weariness — Christmas, January 31st, 1868. 



There was compensation in the lake for all the weariness 

 and the want. It was only water ; the native tribes and trading 

 Arabs alike pronounced it so. And there was water everywhere. 

 They never thought of the beauty of its broad surface mirrow- 

 ing the lofty mountains, which seemed to look down with so 

 much pride on their nestling; and they never thought of the 

 grandeur, when their eyes rested on the mighty waters rushing 

 away through the deep rent in the mountains on the north, 

 gathering new strength and impetuosity in the rocky chasm, 

 leaping and roaring in the wildness and gladness of their 

 release ; and they never cared where the waters came from, and 

 thought no more of the river which flowed into the lake on the 

 south than of any other river. All of these things engaged the 

 thought of Livingstone, and wove themselves in a resistless 

 spell about him. His journal, in its brevity, only hints of the 

 delight with which he strolled along the shores of Moero. In 

 the freedom of conversation with Mr. Stanley years after, he 



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