THE SHORES OF TANGANYIKA. 729 



On leaving Mrera, and passing the village of Simba, they 

 reached the range of hills overlooking the Tanganyika, and 

 turning southward, leaving his old route behind him. The 

 land was now peculiarly rough with angular fragments of 

 quartz. It was early in October, and in the hottest season. 

 The doctor complained of great fatigue and inward suffering. 

 The course lay along the range, a thousand feet above the sur- 

 face of the lake, amid scraggy trees, whose scanty foliage afforded 

 a poor protection from the scorching rays. Along the shores of 

 the lake a great deal of cotton was under cultivation, and the 

 people had devised methods of manufacturing it, by which they 

 provided themselves with as much clothing as their fashions 

 call for. 



The sides of Tanganyika presented a succession of rounded 

 bays answering to the valleys which trended down to the shore 

 between the numerous ranges of hills. The hills were the 

 habitat of all the distinctive animals of the continent, and the 

 familiar traps of the natives — with whom the taking of ele- 

 phants and buffaloes is more a business than a sport — were seen 

 daily. Every day it was the same thing — laborious marches 

 over mountains rising five hundred to seven hundred feet above 

 the passes ; often fifteen hundred feet above the lake. Ordi- 

 narily there would have been outbursts of enthusiasm, in the 

 midst of the splendid scenery which must frequently have sur- 

 rounded him ; but day after day he passed in silence along those 

 lofty crests from which he could look down on the surface of 

 the lake, flashing like a golden mirror in the lengthening sun- 

 rays of evening, or reflecting like burnished silver the noon- 

 time brilliancy ; or away over broken ledges and majestic ranges 

 of hills rich in geological curiosities and vegetable luxuriance; 

 or along valleys beautiful with promises of reward to intelligent 

 and industrious attention. It was an unusual and saddening 

 silence, and tells unmistakably of the sufferings with which the 

 journey was being performed. 



He passed through Fipa and entered Urungu, and on around 

 the southern end of the Lake Liemba, and came among 

 familiar scenes again. He was here only a little more than 

 one month's march from Ujiji, and yet from this point he had 

 been obliged to turn across through Itawa, years before, and 



