418 STAKT FOE TETTE. Chap. XXI. 



CHAPTER XXI. 



Dr. Kirk and Charles Livingstone proceed to Tette — Belchior's wars — 

 Governor Almeida's praiseworthy interdict — Connivance of the Governor- 

 General at the slave-trade — Masters and slaves — No love lost — Launch 

 of the Lady Nyassa — Native speculations on buoyancy of iron — Free- 

 dom of discussion on certain subjects — Birds at play — Our new quarter- 

 master — Start of the Lady Nyassa deferred — Portuguese "prohibitive" 

 permission for trading — Up the Bovuma in boats — Inhabitants — Mats — 

 Tsetse — Zigzag channel — A queer fish — Canoe rivalry — The Englishman 

 in Africa — An old lady opens the market — Men with pelele — Mabiha — 

 Makoa — Slave route to Kilwa — Life on a sandbank — Unprovoked hostdity 

 — Hives and honey — Coal found — A jolly young waterwoman — Our pro- 

 gress stopped by rocky narrows — Sources of Bovuma — Crocodiles — Their 

 eggs — Hunting the Senze — Back again to the Pioneer. 



On the 5tli of May Dr. Kirk and Charles Livingstone started 

 in the boat for Tette, in order to see the property of the 

 Expedition brought down in canoes. They took four Mazaro 

 canoe-men to manage the boat, and a white sailor to cook for 

 them ; but, unfortunately, he caught fever the very day after 

 leaving the ship, and was ill most of the trip ; so they had to 

 cook for themselves, and to take care of him besides. The 

 natives behaved remarkably well, and were very cleanly in 

 their habits, bathing every day after sunset, although the 

 weather was rather chilly. If a little food was given to one, 

 according almost to universal custom he shared it with the 

 others, although often there was not more than a mouthful 

 for each. They preferred punting to paddling, and chose, in 

 going up the river, the parts that had from two to four 

 feet of water, instead of the deep channel where the current 

 is strong. They kept admirable time with their poles, raising 

 them, bringing them down, pushing, and giving the final 



