18G6.] KINDNESS OF NATIVES TOWARDS TRAVELLERS. 33 



elsewhere. Our poodle dog Chitane chased the dogs of 

 this village with unrelenting fury, his fierce looks inspired 

 terror among the wretched pariah dogs of a yellow and 

 white colour, and those looks were entirely owing to its 

 being difficult to distinguish at which end his head or tail 

 lay. He enjoyed the chase of the yelping curs immensely, 

 but if one of them had turned he would have bolted the 

 other way. 



A motherly-looking woman came forward and offered me 

 some meal ; this was when we were in the act of departing : 

 others had given food to the men and no return had been 

 made. I told her to send it on by her husband, and I would 

 purchase it, but it would have been better to have accepted 

 it : some give merely out of kindly feeling and with no 

 prospect of a return. 



Many of the Makoa men have their faces thickly tattooed 

 in double raised lines of about half an inch in length. After 

 the incisions are made charcoal is rubbed in and the flesh 

 pressed out, so that all the cuts are raised above the level 

 of the surface. It gives them rather a hideous look, and a 

 good deal of that fierceness which our kings and chiefs 

 of old put on whilst having their portraits taken. 



4:th May. — The stream, embowered in perpetual shade 

 and overspread with the roots of water-loving, broad-leaved 

 trees, we found to be called Nkonya. The spot of our 

 encampment was an island formed by a branch of it part- 

 ing and re-entering it again : the owner had used it for 

 rice. 



The buffaloes were bitten again by tsetse on 2nd, and also 

 to-day, from the bites of other flies (which look much more 

 formidable than tsetse), blood of arterial colour flows down ; 

 this symptom I never saw before, but when we slaughtered 

 an ox which had been tsetse bitten, we observed that the 

 blood had the arterial hue. The cow has inflammation of 

 one eye, and a swelling on the right lumbar portion of the 



VOL. I. D 



