68 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOUENALS. [Chap. III. 



buffalo-calf, and our only remaining donkey are greeted 

 with the same amount of curiosity and laughter-exciting 

 comment as myself. 



Every evening a series of loud musket reports is heard 

 from the different villages along the river ; these are imi- 

 tation evening guns. All copy the Arabs in dress and 

 chewing tobacco with " nora " lime, made from burnt river 

 shells instead of betel-nut and lime. The women are stout, 

 well-built persons, with thick arms and legs ; their heads 

 incline to the bullet shape; the lip-rings are small; the 

 tattoo a mixture of Makoa and Waiyau. Fine blue and 

 black beads are in fashion, and so are arm-coils of thick 

 brass wire. Very nicely inlaid combs are worn in the hair ; 

 the inlaying is accomplished by means of a gum got from 

 the root of an orchis called Nangazu. 



3rd July. — A short march brought us to Mtarika's new 

 place. The chief made his appearance only after he had 

 ascertained all he could about us. The population is 

 immense ; they are making new gardens, and the land is 

 laid out by straight lines about a foot broad, cut with the 

 hoe ; one goes miles without getting beyond the marked or 

 surveyed fields. 



Mtarika came at last ; a big ugly man, with large mouth 

 and receding forehead. He asked to see all our curiosities, 

 as the watch, revolver, breech-loading rifle, sextant. I 

 gave him a lecture on the evil of selling his people, 

 and he wished me to tell all the other chiefs the same 

 thing. 



They dislike the idea of guilt being attached to them for 

 having sold many who have lost their lives on their way 

 down to the sea-coast. We had a long visit from Mtarika 

 next day ; he gave us meal, and meat of wild hog, with a 

 salad made of bean-leaves. A wretched Swaheli Arab, ill 

 with rheumatism, came for aid, and got a cloth. They all 

 profess to me to be buying ivory only. 



