80 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS. [Chap. III. 



oozing bog, where ridge is separated from ridge : the ridges 

 become steeper and narrower as we approach Mataka's. 



I counted fifteen running burns of from one to ten yards 

 wide in one day's march of about six hours ; being in a hilly 

 or rather mountainous region, they flow rapidly and have 

 plenty of water-power. In July any mere torrent ceases to 

 flow, but these were brawling burns with water too cold 

 (61°) for us to bathe in whose pores were all open by the 

 relaxing regions nearer the coast. The sound, so un- African, 

 of gushing water dashing over rocks was quite familiar to 

 our ears. 



This district, which rises up west of Mataka's to 3400 

 feet above the sea, catches a great deal of the moisture 

 brought up by the easterly winds. Many of the trees are 

 covered with lichens. While here we had cold southerly 

 breezes, and a sky so overcast every day after 10 a.m., that 

 we could take no astronomical observations : even the 

 latitude was too poor to be much depended on. 12° 53' S. 

 may have been a few miles from this. 



The cattle, rather a small breed, black and white in 

 patches, and brown, with humps, give milk which is duly 

 prized by these "Waiyau. The sheep are the large-tailed 

 variety, and generally of a black colour. Fowls and 

 pigeons are the only other domestic animals we see, if we 

 except the wretched village dogs which our poodle had 

 immense delight in chasing. 



The Waiyau are far from a handsome race, but they are 

 not the prognathous beings one sees on the West Coast 

 either. Their heads are of a round shape; compact fore- 

 heads, but not particularly receding; the alse nasi are 

 flattened out; lips full, and with the women a small lip- 

 ring just turns them up to give additional thickness. 

 Their style of beauty is exactly that which was in fashion 

 when the stone deities were made in the caves of Elephanta 

 and Kenora near Bombay. A favourite mode of dressing 



