98 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOUKNALS. [Chap. IV. 



where ; one would fain not notice them, but they are so 

 striking as one trudges along the sultry path, that it 

 cannot be avoided. 



9th September. — We spent Sunday at Kandango's village-. 

 The men killed a hippopotamus when it was sleeping 

 on the shore; a full-grown female, 10 feet 9 inches from 

 the snout to the insertion of the tail, and 4 feet 4 inches 

 high at the withers. The bottom here and all along south- 

 wards now is muddy. Many of the Siluris Glanis are 

 caught equal in length to an eleven or a twelve-pound 

 salmon, but a great portion is head ; slowly roasted on a 

 stick stuck in the ground before the fire they seemed to 

 me much more savoury than I ever tasted them before. 

 With the mud we have many shells : north of Ngombo 

 scarcely one can be seen, and there it is sandy or rocky. 



10th September. — In marching southwards we came close 

 to the range (the Lake lies immediately on the other side 

 of it), but we could not note the bays which it forms ; we 

 crossed two mountain torrents from sixty to eighty yards 

 broad, and now only ankle deep. In flood these bring 

 down enormous trees, which are much battered and bruised 

 among the rocks in their course ; they spread over the 

 plain, too, and would render travelling here in the rains 

 impracticable. After spending the night at a very civil 

 headman's chefu, we crossed the Lotende, another of these 

 torrents : each very lofty mass in the range seemed to give 

 rise to one. Nothing of interest occurred as we trudged 

 along. A very poor headman, Pamawawa, presented a roll 

 of salt instead of food : this was grateful to us, as we have 

 been without thatUuxury some time. 



12th September. — We crossed the rivulet Nguena, and 

 then went on to another with a large village by it, it is 

 called Pantoza Pangone. The headman had been suffering 

 from sore eyes for four months, and pressed me to stop and 

 give him medicine, which I did. 



