18G6.] AN OUTWARD RESEMBLANCE ONLY. 133 



in the direction of the paramount chief, Chisumpi, whom 

 we found to be only traditionally great. 



20th October. — In passing along we came to a village 

 embowered in fine trees ; the headman is Kaveta, a really 

 fine specimen of the Kanthunda, tall, well-made, with a fine 

 forehead and Assyrian nose. He proposed to us to remain 

 over night with him, and I unluckily declined. 



Convoying us out a mile, we parted with this gentleman , 

 and then came to a smith's village, where the same invitation 

 was given and refused. A sort of infatuation drove us on, 

 and after a long hot march we found the great Chisumpi, 

 the facsimile in black of Sir Colin Campbell ; his nose, 

 mouth, and the numerous wrinkles on his face were identical 

 with those of the great General, but here all resemblance 

 ceased. Two men had preceded us to give information, and 

 when I followed I saw that his village was one of squalid 

 misery, the only fine things about being the lofty trees in 

 which it lay. Chisumpi begged me to sleep at a village 

 about half a mile behind : his son was browbeating him on 

 some domestic affair, and the older man implored me to go. 

 Next morning he came early to that village, and arranged 

 for our departure, offering nothing, and apparently not 

 wishing to see us at all. I suspect that though paramount 

 chief, he is weak-minded, and has lost thereby all his 

 influence, but in the people's eyes he is still a great one. 



Several of my men exhibiting symptoms of distress, 

 I inquired for a village in which we could rest Saturday 

 and Sunday, and at a distance from Chisumpi. A head- 

 man volunteered to lead us to one west of this. In 

 passing the sepulchral grove of Chisumpi our guide re- 

 marked, " Chisumpi's forefathers sleep there." This was 

 the first time I have heard the word "sleep" applied to 

 death in these parts. The trees in these groves, and around 

 many of the villages, are very large, and show what the 

 country would become if depopulated. 



