INTKODUCTION. 



xliii 



discovered) were liberated there by myself, together with Apteryx oiueni and Apteryx mcmtelli, my 

 object being to bring together, on my own property, as many as possible of these endemic forms. 

 As, in connection with these and other species, Papaitonga and its surroundings will have 

 frequent mention in these volumes, I had better take the reader into my confidence at once and 

 say something descriptive of the place. 



Sixty miles from Wellington by the Manawatu Kailway, and less than two miles to the 

 westward of that line, there is one of the prettiest bits of scenery in New Zealand. This is 

 Papaitonga, so called from time immemorial, the name signifying the "Beauty of the South." 

 It is a fresh-water lake of 135 acres in extent, with two exquisite islands covered with bright 

 vegetation. On the north and north-east sides it is enclosed by a beautiful native forest, which 

 presents a thick fringe of tree-ferns and underwood along the water's edge ; on the southern side 

 there is open rising ground, with clearings in the forest beyond, showing the snow-covered ranges 

 of the Tararua mountains ; whilst on the low-lying flat to the westward there is an outlet 

 to the sea, about three miles distant, by the tortuous Waiwiri stream. Every part of it is 

 historic ground, Papaitonga having been the scene of one of the most important of ancient Maori 

 fights, and the little island which has given its name to the lake the principal battleground. 

 To this day the island is a perfect necropolis of human bones, although concealed and protected 

 by the dense growth of evergreen vegetation that now covers the site of the ancient 'pa.' The 

 original possessors of this picturesque lake, the Muaupoko, after being vanquished by Te 

 Eauparaha and his armed followers, were driven out of the district, but a remnant was 

 subsequently permitted to come back and settle at Horowhenua, a little further to the north, 

 which is still the home of the tribe. 



A full account (in English and Maori) of that memorable fight is given by the author in his 

 ' Story of Papaitonga ' (Trans. N. Z. Inst., vol. xxvi., p. 572-584). 



The lake, under rigid protection, is a perfect sanctuary for native wild-fowl. Since His 

 Excellency the Earl of Glasgow was a guest there, and enjoyed some good sport, in 1892, no 

 shooting has been allowed on the lake, except for taking specimens, and, as a consequence, in the 

 shooting season thousands of Wild-duck, Teal, and Wigeon congregate there, feeling perfectly 

 secure from molestation of any kind. Dabchicks play on the placid surface of the lake, and 

 Terns and Sea-gulls hover overhead ; on the raupo-covered banks the Swamp-hen abounds, and 

 down in the sedgy hollow may be heard, from time to time, the boom of the lonely Bittern. As 

 the shades of evening close in, the shrill cry of the Wood-hen may now be heard on every side, 

 although the bird is almost extinct in the surrounding country ; and, later on, the solemn cry of 

 the Morepork marks the approach of night. 



The place is one of such surpassing beauty that, as far back as 1861, Sir George Grey, then 

 Governor of New Zealand, endeavoured to purchase it from the native owners, intending, if 

 possible, to make his permanent home there ; but at that time the section of Ngatiraukawa, to 

 whom it belonged, were under the influence of the " Maori King " and would not treat with the 

 Governor's emissary. Subsequent Governors, and others, since that time have negotiated in vain 

 till, in 1891, I was fortunate enough to become the purchaser of the property (now comprising, 

 with additions, over 1,300 acres) which constitutes my country home in New Zealand.* 

 It is a matter of local tradition that, in the olden time, a Maori from the north who had been 

 visiting the tribe then residing on the shore, on taking his departure, stood for a while on a 

 rising ground commanding a view of the lake, and then exclaimed: "Farewell Papaitonga! — 



* Commenting on the incident, at the time, one of the local papers said : "On our asking the leading chief how it 

 came to pass that, after so many years, they had now sold the place to Sir Walter Buller, his answer was ' Only 

 because he is who he is,' thus bearing unconscious testimony to that gentleman's remarkable personality among 

 the Maori people." 



