Chap. XIX. FEARS OF THE MAKOLOLO. 2G3 



Fruit-trees and vines yield twice in the year, without any 

 labour or irrigation being bestowed on them. Grains and 

 vegetables do the same; and if advantage is taken of the mists 

 of winter, even three crops of pulse may be raised. Cotton 

 was now standing in the pods in his fields, but he did not 

 seem to value it : I understood him to say that the wet of one 

 of the two rainy seasons with which this country is favoured, 

 sometimes proves unfavourable to the growth of this plant. 

 I am not aware whether wheat has ever been tried, but I saw 

 both figs and grapes bearing well. The great complaint of 

 all cultivators is the want of a good road to carry their 

 produce to market. 



Farther on we left the mountainous country, and descended 

 towards the west coast through a district of a more sterile 

 aspect. On our right ran the river Senza (or Bengo, as it 

 is called nearer the sea), here about fifty yards broad, and 

 navigable for canoes. The low plains adjacent to its banks 

 are protected from inundation by embankments, and the 

 population is entirely occupied in raising food and fruits for 

 exportation to Loanda. The banks are infested by myriads of 

 the most ferocious mosquitoes I ever met with, and not one 

 of our party could get a snatch of sleep. I had taken up my 

 quarters in the house of a Portuguese, but was soon glad to 

 make my escape and lie across the path on the lee side of 

 the fire, with the smoke blowing over my body. My host 

 wondered at my want of taste, and I at his want of feeling, 

 for to my astonishment he had actually become used to the 

 infliction of a pain equal to that of a nail through the heel of 

 one's boot, or of the toothache. 



As we were now drawing near to the sea, the anxiety of my 

 companions increased. One of them asked me if we should 

 have an opportunity of watching each other at Loanda. " If, 

 for instance, one went for water, would the others see if he 

 were kidnapped ? " "I see what you are driving at," I 

 replied ; " and, if you suspect me, you may return, for I am as 

 ignorant of Loanda as you are : but nothing will happen to 

 you but what happens to myself. We have stood by each 

 other hitherto, and will do so to the last." The plains 

 adjacent to Loanda are somewhat elevated and comparatively 

 sterile. In crossing these we first beheld the sea, the appear- 



