Chap. XX. ST. PAUL DE LOANDA. 207 



pieces of English calico and other cloths, showing that they 

 paid more regard to strength than to colour. 



St. Paulde Loanda has been a very considerable city, but is (54) 

 now in a state of decay. It contains about twelve thousand 

 inhabitants, most of whom are people of colour.* Various 

 evidences of its former magnificence survive, especially two 

 cathedrals, one of which is now converted into a workshop, 

 while the other is in a state of ruin. Three forts continue in 

 a good state of repair. The palace of the governor and the 

 government offices are commodious structures, and many large 

 stone houses are to be found ; but nearly all the houses of the 

 native inhabitants are of wattle and daub. Trees are planted 

 all over the town for the sake of shade ; and the city presents 

 an imposing appearance from the sea. The harbour is formed 

 by the low sandy island of Loanda, which is inhabited by 

 about loOO souls, upwards of 600 of whom are industrious 

 fishermen. The roadstead lies between the island and the 

 mainland, on which the city is built. In a south-west gale 

 the waves dash, over part of the island, and carry large 

 quantities of sand before them. Great quantities of soil are 

 also washed in the rainy season from the heights above the 

 city, so that the port, which once contained water sufficient to 

 float the largest ships close to the custom-house, is now dry at 

 low water, and the ships are compelled to anchor about a mile 

 north of their old station. Nearly all the water consumed in 

 Loanda is brought from the river Bengo by means of launches, 

 the only supply that the city affords being from some deep 

 wells of slightly brackish water ; unsuccessful attempts have 

 been made by different governors to bring water from the 

 river Coanza by means of a canal which the Dutch had begun 

 during the seven years they held the place before 1648. 

 There is not a single English and only two American mer- 

 chants at Loanda. This is the more remarkable, as nearly 

 all the commerce is carried on by means of English calico 

 brought hither via" Lisbon. Several English houses attempted 



* From the census of 1850-51 we find the population of this city arranged 

 thus : — 830 whites, of whom only 160 are females. This is the largest collection 

 of whites in the country, for Angola itself contains only about 1000. There are 

 2400 half-castes in Loanda, of whom only 120 are slaves ; and 9000 blacks, mori 

 than 5000 of whom are slaves. 



