Chap. XXII. AMBAKISTAS. 2'Jo 



of calico, but thankfully accepted six. The canoes were 

 wretched, carrying only two persons at a time ; but my men 

 being well acquainted with the water, we all got over in 

 about two hours and a half. The admiration of the inhabit- 

 ants was excited by the manner in which they managed the 

 cattle and donkeys in crossing. Five or six, seizing hold of 

 one, bundled it into the stream, and thus forced it to swim 

 for its own preservation. Sometimes they swam along with 

 the cattle, and forced them to go on by dashing water at their 

 heads. The servants of the native traders behaved in a very 

 different manner, being rather glad than otherwise when the 

 oxen refused to cross, for, as they were obliged to slaughter 

 them on such occasions, the loss to their masters was a 

 welcome feast to themselves. 



On the eastern side of the Quango we passed on, without 

 visiting our friend of the conical head-dress, to the residence 

 of some Ambakistas who had crossed the river in order to 

 secure the first chances of trade in wax. I have before 

 remarked on the knowledge of reading and writing that these 

 Ambakistas possess ; they are employed as clerks and writers, 

 their feminine delicacy of constitution enabling them to write 

 a fine lady's hand, which is much esteemed amongst the 

 Portuguese. They are also famed fur their love of learning, 

 and have acquired a knowledge of the history of Portugal, of 

 Portuguese law, &c. &c. They are remarkably keen in trade, 

 and are sometimes called the. Jews of Angola. The black 

 population of Angola has become much deteriorated, chiefly 

 through the consumption of an inferior kind of spirit named 

 aguardente, which is imported into the country, and is most 

 injurious in its effects. We saw many parties carrying casks 

 of this baneful liquor to the independent chiefs beyond ; and 

 were informed that it is difficult for any trader to convey it 

 far, as the carriers are in the habit of helping themselves by 

 means of a straw, and filling up the vacuum with water. To 

 prevent this, it is common to see large demijohns with pad- 

 locks on the corks, but these are liable to be stolen bodily — an 

 event of common occurrence. 



We had now rain every day, and the sky seldom presented 

 that aspect of clear blue expanse so common in the dry lands 

 :>f the south. The heavens are often overcast by stationary 



