Chap. XXIII. A FAITHLESS GUIDE. 30*. 



The present chief is said to be mild in his government, and 

 will depose an under-chief for unjust conduct. But though 

 he possesses absolute power, his name had less influence over 

 his subjects with whom I came in contact than that of 

 Sekeletu has over people living at a much greater distance 

 from the capital . 



As we determined to strike away to the S.E. from Cabango 

 to our old friend Katema, I asked a guide from Muanzanza as 

 soon as the funeral proceedings were over. He agreed to 

 furnish one, and also accepted a smaller present from me 

 than usual, on learning that I was not a trader. He seemed 

 to regard these presents as his proper dues ; and as a cargo of 

 goods had come by Senhor Pascoal, he entered the house for 

 the purpose of receiving his share, when he was gravely 

 presented with the commonest earthenware vessel, which he 

 received with expressions of abundant gratitude. 



The Balonda in this quarter are much more agreeable- 

 looking than any of the inhabitants nearer the coast. The 

 women allow their teeth to remain in their white state, and 

 would be comely, but for the custom of inserting pieces of 

 reed into the cartilage of the nose, by which the nostrils 

 become expanded. They seem generally to be in good spirits, 

 and spend their time in gossip, funeral ceremonies, and mar- 

 riages. This flow of animal spirits must be one reason why 

 they are such an indestructible race. 



We were forced to prepay our guide and his father too, and 

 yet he went but one day with us, although he promised to go 

 to Katema. He was not in the least ashamed at breaking his 

 engagements, and probably no disgrace will be attached to 

 the deed by Muanzanza. My men would gladly have stripped 

 him of the wages, which he wore on his person, but, as we 

 had always acted on the mildest principles, they let him move 

 off with his unearned gains. The reason why we needed a 

 guide at all was to secure the convenience of a path, which, 

 though generally no better than a sheep-walk, is much easier 

 than going straight in one direction, through tangled forests 

 and tropical vegetation. We knew the general direction we 

 ought to follow, and also if any deviation occurred from our 

 proper route ; but we could not without a guide avoid im- 

 passable forests and bogs, or get to the proper fords of the rivers 



