Chap. I. RIVER deities. 27 



hollow, have the inside dead or rotten ; but the Baobab, 

 though stripped of its bark outside, and hollowed to a 

 cavity inside, has the power of exuding new bark from its 

 substance to both the outer and inner surfaces ; so, a hut 

 made like that in the oak called the " Forest Queen," in 

 Sherwood, would soon all be lined with bark. 



The portions of the river called Shigogo and Shipanga 

 are bordered by a low level expanse of marshy country 

 with occasional clumps of palm-trees and a few thorny 

 acacias. The river itself spreads out to a width of from 

 three to four miles, with many islands, among which it is 

 difficult to navigate, except when the river is in flood. In 

 front, a range of high hills from the north-east crosses and 

 compresses it into a deep narrow channel, called the 

 Lupata Gorge. The Portuguese thought the steamer 

 would not stem the current here ; but as it was not more 

 than about three knots, and as there was a strong breeze 

 in our favour, steam and sails got her through with ease. 

 Heavy-laden canoes take two days to go up this pass. A 

 current sweeps round the little rocky promontories 

 Chifura and Kangomba, forming whirlpools and eddies 

 dangerous for the clumsy craft, which are dragged past 

 with long ropes. 



The paddlers place meal on these rocks as an offering 

 to the turbulent deities, which they believe preside over 

 spots fatal to many a large canoe. We were slily told 

 that native Portuguese take off their hats to these river 

 gods, and pass in solemn silence ; when safely beyond the 

 promontories, they fire muskets, and, as we ought to do, 

 give the canoe-men grog. From the spoor of buffaloes and 

 elephants it appears that these animals frequent Lupata 

 in considerable numbers, and — we have often observed 

 the association — the tsetse fly is common. A horse for 

 the Governor of Tette was sent in a canoe from Quilli- 

 mane ; and, lest it should be wrecked on the Chifura and 



