Chap. VII. victoria falls. 177 



the Rainbow, or the place of the Rainbow, was the more 

 ancient term they bore. We embarked in canoes, belong- 

 ing to Tuba Mokoro, " smasher of canoes," an ominous 

 name ; but he alone, it seems, knew the medicine which 

 insures one against shipwreck in the rapids above the 

 Falls. For some miles the river was smooth and tranquil, 

 and we glided pleasantly over water clear as crystal, and 

 past lovely islands densely covered with a tropical vege- 

 tation. Noticeable among the many trees were the lofty 

 Hyphame and Borassus palms; the graceful wild date- 

 palm, with its fruit in golden clusters, and the umbrageous 

 mokononga, of cypress form, with its dark-green leaves 

 and scarlet fruit. Many flowers peeped out near the 

 water's edge, some entirely new to us, and others, as the 

 convolvulus, old acquaintances. 



But our attention was quickly called from the charming- 

 islands to the dangerous rapids, down which Tuba might 

 unintentionally shoot us. To confess the truth, the very 

 ugly aspect of these roaring rapids could scarcely fail to 

 cause some uneasiness in the minds of new-comers. It is 

 only when the river is very low, as it was now, that any 

 one durst venture to the island to which we were bound. 

 If one went during the period of flood, and fortunately 

 hit the island, he would be obliged to remain there till the 

 water subsided again, if he lived so long. Both hippopo- 

 tami and elephants have been known to be swept over the 

 Falls, and of course smashed to pulp. 



Before entering the race of waters, we were requested 

 not to speak, as our talking might diminish the virtue of 

 the medicine; and no one with such boiling eddying 

 rapids before his eyes, would think of disobeying the 

 orders of a " canoe-smasher." It soon became evident that 

 there was sound sense in this request of Tuba's, although 

 the reason assigned was not unlike that of the canoe-man 

 from Sesheke, who begged one of our party not to whifitle, 



N 



