"OLD KITTIWAKEr 193 



how they fought in spring time, and when 

 they were plentiful he used to take them in 

 nets, and fatten them on soaked wheat for 

 market. Even from this bleak northern marsh 

 the birds were sent by coach all the way to 

 London. By being kept closely confined and 

 frequently fed, in a fortnight they became so 

 plump as to resemble, when plucked, balls of 

 fat ; and they then brought as much as a florin 

 apiece. If care were not taken to kill the bird 

 just when it attained to its greatest degree of 

 fatness, it fell rapidly in condition, and was 

 nearly worthless. The marshmen were wont 

 to pinch off the head, and when all the blood 

 had exuded, the flesh remained white and 

 delicate. 



Held in even greater estimation as deli- 

 cacies than Ruffs and Reeves were Godwits, 

 which were fattened in like manner for the 

 table. They were more rare than the last, and 

 fetched higher prices. When a bunch of birds 

 was sent to town, a basket of pink-fleshed Char 

 was invariably sent with them ; and, owing 

 to the rarity of this fish, Kittiwake was always 

 able to sell them well. 



Coots came round in their season, and 



o 



