1841.] to the sources of the Punjab rivers. 3 



with many islands. We crossed the Gomuttee river, a considerable 

 tributary on the left bank of the Beeas, by a ricketty wooden bridge, 

 and passed over the Beeas itself upon inflated buffalo skins to the 

 fort of Bajowra, where the road from Mundee, by which Moorcroft, 

 Gerard, and Henderson had travelled joins the road from Rampoor. 

 On the evening of the 29th of June we reached Sooltanpoor, the 

 capital of Kooloo, and found lodgings ready for us in the house of the 

 former Wuzeer of Kooloo. On the following day we paid the Rajah a 

 visit of ceremony. He was the same Ajeet Singh whom Moorcroft 

 had seen ; but when we saw him he was completely at the mercy of the 

 Sikhs, who lorded it over him, even in his own Durbar. 



The capital of Kooloo, Sooltanpoor, or as it is sometimes called 

 Rughoo Nathpoor, from the chief temple being dedicated to Rughoo- 

 nath, could never have been extensive, and it was then daily becoming 

 less. It is situated at the confluence of the Serbullee, a small stream, 

 with the Beeas river. It has but two streets, but they are paved with 

 boulder stones, as are likewise all the lanes. The houses are built 

 of stone and wood, but we saw none of any particular neatness. Goitre 

 was prevalent, diseases of the eye common, and extreme dirtiness 

 universal. The annual revenue was said to be 1,20,000 Rupees, 

 of which the Sikh Government seized 70,000. 



We left Sooltanpoor on the 3rd of July ; but instead of crossing 

 the river to the left bank, as Moorcroft did, by the two bridges imme- 

 diately above the town, we proceeded along the right bank. The 

 valley opened as we advanced, and the scenery became bold and 

 beautiful. The islands were numerous and well wooded ; and the 

 banks were alternately gentle slopes covered with grass to the water's 

 edge, and steep alluvial spurs overhanging the river, and covered with 

 apricots, peaches, apples, pears, figs, and grasses all growing wild ; 

 further on, were the pine-clad slopes of the mountains on each bank, 

 the nearest green, the more distant blue ; and beyond all, appeared the 

 lofty snowy peaks at the head of the river. 



On the evening of the 4th of July we halted on a low bank, close to a 

 hot well, called Seeta Koond. The well was surrounded by a square 

 enclosure with a few stone figures of deities placed in the corners. The 

 temperature of the water was 104°. of Faht. the spring has probably 

 some connection with the hot wells at Biseshta-moonh, on the opposite 



