248 LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE, LL.D 



or south side of the river. But this river forms a line of defence against the 

 Matabele, where my father-in-law, Dr. Moffat, went. I was persuaded by 

 some to go in that direction. But when I had heard the opinions of all who 

 knew the country, and those who had lived in that direction, I resolved to go 

 north-east, and strike the Zambesi there. 



In passing up towards Loanda, we saw that the face of the country was 

 different, that it was covered with Cape heaths, rhododendrons, and Alpine 

 roses, showing that we must be on elevated ground. Then we came to a 

 sudden descent of 1,000 feet, in which the river Quango seemed to have 

 formed a large valley. I hoped to receive an aneroid barometer from Colonel 

 Steele, but he had gone to the Crimea. In going back, therefore, I began to 

 try the boiling point of water, and I found a gradual elevation from the west 

 coast until we got up to the point, where we saw the Cape heaths and 

 rhododendrons ; then, passing down inland, we saw the rivers running 

 towards the centre of the country, and the boiling point of water showed 

 a descent of the surface in that direction too. This elevated ridge is formed 

 of clay slate. In going north-east, towards the Zambesi, we found many 

 rivulets, running back towards the centre of the country. Having gone 

 thither, we found the elevation the same as it was on the western ridge, and 

 the other rivers, as described by the natives, flowing from the sides into the 

 centre, showing that the centre country is a valley — not a valley compared to 

 the sea, but a valley with respect to the lateral ridges. There were no large 

 mountains in that valley ; but the mountains outside the valley, although 

 they appeared high, yet, actually, when tried by the boiling point of water, 

 were not so high as the ridges, and not much higher than the valley. 



The President : "Will you describe the White Mountains ? 



Dr. Livingstone : They He to the north-east of the Great Falls. They 

 are masses of white rock somewhat like quartz, and one of them is called 

 " Tabacheu," which means " white mountain." From the description I got 

 of its glistening whiteness, I imagined that it was snow ; but when I observed 

 the height of the hill, I saw that snow could not lie upon it. 



The President : The society will observe that this fact has an important 

 application. 



Dr. Livingstone : I observed to them, " "What is that stuff upon the top 

 of the hill ?" They said it was stone, which was also affirmed to me while I 

 was at Linyanti, and I have obtained pieces of it. Most of the hills have 

 this coping of white quartz-looking rock. Outside the ridges the rocks are 

 composed of mica and mica-slate, and crystalline gneiss at the bottom. Below 

 we have the coalfield, which commences at Zumbo. Higher up there are 

 very large fossil trees, of which I have brought specimens. 



The President: The point to which I called your attention with 

 reference to the white rocks, is important, as it may apply to the mountains 



