RE-ASCENT OF THE SHIRE. 287 



" The lake is of a pear-shape, only the narrow portion is prolonged some 

 80 miles South of the body where we stood. There is an inhabited moun- 

 tain-island near the beginning of the narrow part : the broad portion may be 

 from 25 to 30 miles wide. We ascended some way up the mountain Pirimiti, 

 and, looking away to the N.N.E., we had 26° of watery horizon, with two 

 mountain-tops, rising in the blue distance like little islands 50 or 60 miles 

 away. The natives use large canoes, for fear of storms on it, and reckon it 

 four days' paddling in a calm to reach the end ; but with a strong wind they 

 can do it in two days. Until it is surveyed, it will not be over-estimated at 

 60 or 70 miles in length. This does not include the southern narrow portion 

 of 30 miles. 



" The whole region was well, though not densely, peopled with Man- 

 ganja, who inhabit both banks of the River Shire from Morambala up to 

 Chibisa's place ; but they occupy the eastern bank only and the adjacent 

 mountains beyond that point. The western bank above Chibisa is peopled by 

 the Maravi. None of this tribe are to be met with near Shirwa, so it would 

 appear to be improper to identify it with the ' Lake Maravi' of the maps ; 

 nor can we set it down as that concerning which I collected some informa- 

 tion from Senhor Candido, of Tete, for it was described as 45 days to 

 the N.N.W. of that village. The Portuguese do not even pretend to know 

 Shirwa. 



" We made frequent inquiries among the people if they had ever been 

 visited by white men before, and we were invariably answered in the negative. 

 A black woolly-haired slave-trader once visited the part ; but the discovery is 

 not spoken of in reference to such, the lake being surrounded by them, but it 

 is claimed for Dr. Kirk and myself, as Europeans who accomplished it, entirely 

 ignorant of any information that may or may not be locked up in Portuguese 

 archives. 1 ' 



As their provisions were almost exhausted, the chief members of the 

 party proceeded down the river to meet some of Her Majesty's cruisers off the 

 Kongone ; and here they were compelled to beach the Ma-Robert for repairs. 

 Besides being a bad sailer, she leaked so that the cabin was constantly 

 flooded, the water coming not only from below, but through the deck when- 

 ever it rained. The damp caused by this state of affairs was very prejudical 

 to their health, and also caused the destruction of many botanical specimens, 

 occasioning much worry and loss of time in replacing them with others. After 

 receiving a supply of provisions from Her Majesty's brig Persian, the party 

 returned to Tete, and started on their third ascent of the Shire. On this 

 occasion they examined a lagoon, called " the Lake of Mud" in the language 

 of the natives, in which grows a lotus root called nyika, which the natives 

 collect; when boiled or roasted, it resembles our chestnuts, and as it is 

 common throughout South Africa, it is extensively used as food. These 



