HUNTING THE SENZE. 323 



channels were much narrower, and there was a high degree of probability that 

 we should get them smashed in coming down. 



"We were on part of the slave-route from the Lake Nyassa to Quiloa (Kilwa) 

 about 30 miles below the station of Ndonde, where that route crosses the Rovuma, 

 and a little further from the confluence of the Liende, which, arising from the 

 lulls on the east of the Lake Nyassa, flows into the Rovuma. It is said to be very 

 large, with reeds and aquatic plants growing in it, but at this time only ankle- 

 deep. It contains no rocks till near its sources on the mountains, and between 

 it and the lake the distance is reported to require between two and three days. 

 At the cataracts where we turned there is no rock od the shore, as on the Zam- 

 besi, at Kebra-basa, and Murchison's cataracts. The land is perfectly smooth, 

 and, as far as we could see, the country presented the same flat appearance, with 

 only a few detached hills. The tsetse is met with all along the Rovuma, and 

 the people have no cattle in consequence. They produce large quantities of 

 oil-yielding seeds, as the sesame, or gerzelin, and have hives placed on the 

 trees every few miles. We never saw ebony of equal size to what we met on 

 this river ; and as to its navigability, as the mark at which water stands for 

 many months is three feet above what it is now, and it is now said to be a 

 cubit lower than usual, I have no doubt that a vessel drawing when loaded 

 about 18 inches would run with ease during many months of the year. Should 

 English trade be established on the Lake Nyassa, Englishmen will make this 

 their outlet rather than pay dues to the Portuguese. 



" We return to put our ship on Nyassa. by the Shire, because there we 

 have the friendship of all the people, except that of the slave-hunters. For- 

 merly we found the Shire people far more hostile than are the Makonde of 

 Rovuma, but now they have confidence in us, and we in them. To leave 

 them now would be to open the country for the slave-hunters to pursue their 

 calling therein, and we should be obliged to go through the whole process of 

 gaining a people's confidence again. 



"It may seem to some persons weak to feel a chord vibrating to the dust 

 of her who rests on the banks of the Zambesi, and thinking that the path 

 thereby is consecrated by her remains. We go back to Johanna and Zam- 

 besi in a few days. Kind regards to Lady Murchison, and believe me ever 

 affectionately yours." 



On the Rovuma they found that hunting the senze, " an animal the size 

 of a large cat, but in shape more like a pig, was the chief business of men and 

 boys, as we passed the reedy banks and low islands. They set fire to a mass 

 of reeds, and, armed with sticks, spears, bows and arrows, stand in groups 

 guarding the outlets through which the scared senze may run from the 

 approaching flames. Dark dense volumes of impenetrable smoke now roll 

 over the lee-side of the islet, and showed the hunters. At times vast sheets 

 of lurid flames bursting forth, roaring', crackling: and exploding;, leap wildly 



