LAKE NYASSA. 335 



sandy bay, black crowds were standing gazing at the novel spectacle of a boat 

 under sail ; and whenever we landed we were surrounded in a few seconds by- 

 hundreds of men, women, and children, who had hastened to stare at the 

 ' chiromba,' or wild animals. To see the animals feed was the great attraction. 

 Never did Zoological Society's lions draw a tithe of such multitudes. They 

 crowded round us at meal times, a wilderness, an impenetrable thicket of 

 negroes, looking on with the deepest apparent interest. The zeal they 

 manifested in order to witness the whole procedure was more amusing than 

 agreeable. The smell of black humanity, in a state of perspiration, is not 

 pleasant while one is eating. 



" They cultivate the soil pretty extensively, and grow large quantities of 

 sweet potatoes, as well as rice, maize, native corn, &c. ; but in the north 

 manioc was the staple product, and, with fish kept till they attain a high 

 flavour, constituted the principal food of the inhabitants. During a certain 

 portion of the year, however, they have a curious harvest, which furnishes a 

 singular sort of food. The cakes are dark in colour, and tasted not unlike 

 decayed red-herring. Plenty of excellent fish are found in the lake ; some of 

 the kinds were new to us. One, called sanjika, somewhat resembles trout, 

 and runs up the rivers to spawn as salmon do at home. The largest were 

 above two feet in length ; splendid fish, the best we have ever eaten in Africa. 

 They were running up the rivers in August and September, and numbers of 

 fishermen were actively employed in catching them. Dams were constructed, 

 full of sluices, in each of which was set the fatal trap fish-basket, over whose 

 single entrance might have been written ' All hope abandon ye who enter here.' 

 A short distance below, nets were stretched across from bank to bank, so that it 

 seemed a marvel how even the most sagacious sanjika could get up without 

 being taken, unless a free passage is left at night. 



" In the lake the fish are caught chiefly with nets, but in deep water, 

 some kinds are taken in fish-baskets, lowered to a great depth, and attached by 

 a long line to a float, around which is often fastened a mass of grass or weeds, 

 to serve, perhaps, as an alluring shade for the fish. Fleets of fine canoes are 

 engaged in the lake fisheries ; the men have long paddles, and stand while 

 using them. They sometimes venture out when there is a considerable 

 sea on. 



" Perhaps the first impression one receives of the men is that they are 

 far from being industrious — in fact, are downright lazy. During the day, 

 groups are seen lying asleep under the shady trees, and appearing to take life 

 remarkably easy. But a little further acquaintance modifies first impressions, 

 as it leads to the discovery that many of the sleepers work hard by night. 

 In the afternoon they examine and mend their nets, place them in the canoes, 

 and paddle off, frequently to distant islands, or other good fishing-grounds, and 

 during a large portion of the night the poor fellows are toiling, passing muoh 



