396 LIFE OF DA VI D LIVINGSTONE, LL.D. 



pasturage for the immense herds of the cattle of the Basango, a remarkably 

 light-coloured race, very friendly to strangers. Usango forms the eastern side 

 of a great but still elevated valley. The other or western arch is formed by 

 what are called the Kone mountains, beyond the copper mines of Katanga. 

 Still farther west, and beyond the Kone range or plateau, our old acquaintance 

 the Zambesi, under the name of Jambasi, is said to rise. The southern end of 

 4he great valley between Usango and the Kone range is between 11° and 

 12° south. It was rarely possible then to see a star, but accidentally awak- 

 ing one morning between two and three o'clock, I found one which showed 

 latitude 11° 56" south, and we then were fairly on the upland. Next day 

 we passed two rivulets, running north. As • we advanced, brooks, evidently 

 perennial, became numerous. Some went eastwards, to fall into the Loangwa; 

 others went north-west, to join the river Chambeze. Misled by a map call- 

 ing this river, in an off-hand manner, ' Zambezi, eastern branch,' I took 

 it to be the southern river of that name ; but the Chambeze, with all its 

 branches, flows from the eastern side into the centre of the great upland 

 valley mentioned, which is probably the valley of the Nile. It is an interesting 

 river as helping to form these lakes, and changing its name three times in the 

 500 or 600 miles of its course. It was first crossed by the Portuguese, who 

 always inquired for ivory and slaves, and heard of nothing else. A person 

 who collected all, even the hearsay geography of the Portuguese, knew so 

 little actually of the country, that he put a large river here, running 3,000 feet 

 up-hill, and called it New Zambesi. 



"I crossed the Chambeze in 10° 34" south latitude, and several of its 

 confluents, south and north, quite as large as the Isis at Oxford, but running 

 faster, and having hippopotami in them. I mention these animals, because 

 in navigating the Zambezi I could always steer the steamer boldly to where 

 they lay, sure of finding not less than eight feet of water. 



"The Chambeze runs into Lake Bangweolo, and in coming out of it assumes 

 the name Luapula, and flows north, past the town of Cazembe, and twelve 

 miles below it enters Lake Moero. On leaving Moero at its northern end by 

 a rent in the mountains of Rua, it takes the name Lualaba, and passing on 

 N.N.W. forms Lake Ulenge, in the country west of Tanganyika. 



"I have seen it only when it leaves Moero, and where it comes out of the 

 crack in the mountains of Rua, but am quite satisfied that even before it re- 

 ceives the river Sofunso from Marunga, and the Soburi from the Baloba country, 

 it is quite sufficient to form Ulenge, whether that is a lake with many islands, 

 as some assert, or a sort of Punjaub — a division into several branches, as is 

 maintained by others. These branches are all gathered up by the Lufira — a large 

 river, which, by many confluents, drains the western side of the great valley. 

 I have not seen the Lufira, but pointed out west of 11° south, it is asserted, 

 always to require canoes. This is purely native information. Some intelligent 



