HEAD-DRESSES OF THE NATIVES. G67 



pass that road until he had settled some row with the Arabs at Unyanyembe. 

 This delayed us till the beginuing of January. On Jan. 5, we reached the 

 boundaries of Unyamwezi proper, and then across a large plain and the S. 

 Ngombe, and came to Ugara, in all three districts of which I had to pay tri- 

 bute. After Ugara I came to a mountainous country — Kawendi — and run- 

 ning water, the first which I had seen since leaving Mpwapwa. The moun- 

 tains extend to the borders of the Tanganyika; but at Ugaga we came on Bur- 

 ton's route, and thence, passing just to the north of the Malagarazi Valley, 

 we arrived at the Tanganyika by a comparatively easy route. Before reach- 

 ing Ugaga, however, we had a good deal of trouble, as the guides did not 

 know the road. I was utterly lame from a large abscess on my leg, and 

 therefore unable to take the head of the caravan and direct its course. On 

 my first view of the Tanganyika I could scarcely comprehend it. Such was 

 the immensity of the view that I fancied the grey lake to be sky, and the 

 mountains of Ugoma in the distance to be clouds. However, it dawned on 

 me by degrees that this was the lake, and nothing else. At Kawele, the 

 capital of Ujiji, I was well received by the Arabs ; and after securing the 

 books and other things left here by Dr. Livingstone, I immediately made 

 preparations, and got away for a cruise round the lake. In my cruise I 

 found ninety-six rivers, besides torrents and springs coming in to the lake in 

 the portion I went round, and one — the Lukuga — going out. This river 

 flows to the Lurwa, and joins it at a short distance below Lake Moero. 



"As soon as I could get a few stores I returned to Kasenge, the place 

 where Speke landed on the western bank of the Tanganyika. The next 

 portion of the journey will be from Kasenge by Nyangwe down to the capi- 

 tal of Urna. After leaving Kasenge we first crossed the southern end of 

 the mountains of Ugoma (although nominally in Uguhha), and many streams 

 flowing S. and S.W. towards the Lukuga. The first country we passed was 

 Uguhha. The people there are distinguished by the peculiar and tasteful 

 manner in which they dress their hair, and the elaborate tattooing on the 

 women's stomachs. Their clothing then appeared to me to be remarkably 

 scanty, but, compared with what I saw further on, was very ample. From 

 Uguhha we crossed the mountains of Bambarre, and on arriving at their 

 foot came into a completely new style of country. The huts were all built 

 in long low streets, and rows of oil-palms were planted down the centre. 

 The women did up their hair in the most extraordinary manner. Many of 

 their head-dresses looked like an old-fashioned bonnet with the back out, 

 and long ringlets hanging down their necks. The men plastered their hair 

 with clay into cones and patches, so that they looked as if they had some 

 sort of helmet on their heads. Between the patches of clay their heads were 

 shaved, leaving the scalp bare. After having been detained at Nyangwe 

 about three weeks, a party of Arabs came in from the south side of the river, 



