THROUGH UGOGO. 705 



suffered so much, that I have carefully to recapitulate in my mind, and turn 

 to my note-book besides, to refresh my recollection of even the principal events 

 of this most long, arduous, and eventful inarch to the Victorian Lake. I pro- 

 mised you in my last letter that I would depart as soon as practicable from 

 the old route to Unyanyembe, now so well known, and would, like the patri- 

 arch Livingstone, strike out a new line to unknown lands. I did so. In our 

 adventurous journey north I imperilled the Expedition, and almost brought 

 it to an untimely end, which, however, happily for me, for you, and for geo- 

 graphers, a kindly Providence averted. 



"On leaving Mpwapwa we edged northward across the Desert of the 

 Sfgunda Mkali, or the Forest region, leaving the vain chief of Mbumi far to 

 the south, and traversed Northern Ugogo with the usual experiences attend- 

 ing travellers in Southern Ugogo. The chiefs practised the regular arts; 

 fleeced us of property, and black-mailed us at every opportunity. But oc- 

 casionally we met tribes more amiably disposed towards strangers, although 

 at times we had to pay heavier tribute in other chiefs' lands. We crossed 

 broad and bleak plains, where food was scarce, and cloth vanished fast, to 

 enter hilly districts where provisions were abundant, the people civil, and the 

 chiefs kind. We traversed troublesome districts where wars and rumours of 

 wars were rife, the people treacherous and hostile, to enter countries lying at 

 the mercy of the ferocious Wahumba on the north, and the Wahebu to the 

 south. Thus good and evil fortune alternated during our travels through 

 Ugogo — an epitome in brief of our after-experiences. Furious rainy tem- 

 pests accompanied us constantly, and some days Nature and man alike warred 

 against us, while on others both seemed combined to bless us. Under our 

 generally adverse fates my command seemed to melt away ; men died from 

 fatigue and famine, many were left behind ill, while many, again, deserted. 

 Promises of reward, kindness, threats, punishments, had no effect. The Ex- 

 pedition seemed doomed. The white men, though elected out of the ordinary 

 clas3 of Englishmen, did their work bravely — nay, I may say heroically. 

 Though suffering from fever and dysentery, insulted by natives, marching 

 under the heat and ecmatorial rain-storms, they at all times proved themselves 

 of noble, manly natures, stout-hearted, brave, and — better than all — true 

 Christians. Unrepining they bore their hard fate and worse fare; resignedly 

 they endured arduous troubles, cheerfully performed their allotted duties, and 

 at all times commended themselves to my good opinion. 



'* We reached the western frontier of Ugogo on the last day of 1874. 

 After a rest of two days we thence struck direct north, along an almost level 

 plain, which some said extended as far as Nyanza. We found, by question- 

 ing the natives, that we were also travelling along the western extremity of 

 Wahumba, which we were glad to hear, as we fondly hoped that our march 

 would be less molested. Two days' progress north brought us to the con- 



