968 LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE, LL.D. 



plain, dotted here and there with red-walled villages, and looking very rich 

 and fertile. We encamped on the bar<k of a dry stream. The number and 

 size of the dry gullies we have passed shows what an enormous quantity of 

 water must pour down here in the rainy season. We got some sour milk 

 here, but not at all like milk when it turns sour in England, being purposely 

 made so — it is not at all bad. Our march to-day was about seven miles and 

 a half. 



On the 18^ the party reached Mpwapwa; and there found Messrs. 

 Clark and O'Neill who had gone on before. On the 3rd October, Lieut. 

 Smith and his party arrived, bringing the September mails, having come 

 most of the way from the coast by forced marches. Mr. Wilson's journal thus 

 continues : — 



" lih. O'Neill and I bade farewell to Mpwapwa. We passed close under 

 the mountains, and reached Chunyo soon after sunset, the distance being 

 twelve miles, and the latter part of the road very rough. We were now to 

 begin the crossing of the terrible Marenga Mkali, a plain where for forty 

 miles not a drop of water nor a human habitation is to be found. 



" 9th. We walked on, expecting every minute to come to open ground; 

 but no, there was the same interminable jungle. At last we suddenly emerged 

 on to open ground, dotted with huge baobab trees (a peculiar feature of the 

 country), and I knew that I was in Ugogo, and that the terrible Marenga 

 Mkali was passed. 



" 13th. The hongo or tribute was to be paid to-day, so we did not go on. 

 The king took as hongo twenty-seven doti of cloth, one zinge or bundle of 

 brass wire, and some yellow beads. We wanted to leave a letter here for 

 Lieut. Smith, but an Arab belonging to another caravan told the king that it 

 was poisoned, so he would not take charge of it. 



" Sunday, 15th. Last night we encamped near the dry bed of the river 

 which runs at times by the set of villages called Matamburu. We stopped 

 here to-day. The king paid us a visit in the morning ; his name is Kirema- 

 ganda. He remembered Stanley. 



" 17th. The path led us between two hills, through forest and jungle for 

 twelve miles, to the village of Bihawani, where we encamped, as hongo had 

 to be paid here. Mohammed told me the king wished to see me. I found 

 him a simple, childish old man, who was delighted to see me, and said I was 

 the first white man he had seen. He was paiticularly struck with my beard 

 and shoes. He asked my name, and told me his own, Minyitangaru, and 

 said we must exchange names. He would call himself Wilson, and I must 

 take his name. 



" 18th. The road led through a narrow plain, dotted over with baobab 

 trees, to the village of Kiddidimo, four miles and a half distant. Here we en- 

 camped, as hongo had to be paid. This part of Ugogo is far more like what 



