41 A I,AND OF BEAUTY. 



superstitions, but have the opinion, notwithstanding, 

 that they are wiser in these matters than their white 

 neighbours. Kach tribe has a consciousness of following 

 its own best interests in the best way. They are by no 

 means destitute of that self-esteem which is so common 

 in other nations ; yet they fear all manner of phantoms, 

 and have half-developed ideas and traditions of some- 

 thing or other, they know not what. The pleasures of 

 animal life are ever present to their minds as the supreme 

 good ; and, but for the innumerable invisibilities, they 

 might enjoy their luxurious climate as much as it is 

 possible for man to do. I have often thought, in travelling 

 through their land, that it presents pictures of beauty 

 which angels might enjoy. How often have I beheld, 

 in still mornings, scenes the very essence of beauty, and 

 all bathed in a quiet air of delicious warmth ! yet the 

 occasional soft motion imparted a pleasing sensation of 

 coolness as of a fan. Green grassy meadows, the cattle 

 feeding, the goats browsing, the kids skipping, the groups 

 of herdboys with miniature bows, arrows, and spears ; 

 the women wending their way to the river with watering- 

 pots poised jauntily on their heads ; men sewing under 

 the shady banians ; and old grey-headed fathers sitting 

 on the ground, with staff in hand, listening to the morning 

 gossip, while others carry trees or branches to repair their 

 hedges ; and all this, flooded with the bright African 

 sunshine, and the birds singing among the branches before 

 the heat of the day has become intense, form pictures 

 which can never be forgotten. 



We were informed that a chief named Gando, living 

 on the other side of the river, having been accused of 

 witchcraft, was killed by the ordeal, and his body thrown 

 into the Quango. 



The ferrymen demanded thirty yards of calico, but 

 received six thankfully. The canoes were wretched, 

 carrying only two persons at a time ; but my men being 

 well acquainted with the water, we all got over in about 

 two hours and a half. They excited the admiration of 

 the inhabitants by the manner in which they managed 

 the cattle and donkeys in crossing. The most stubborn 

 of beasts found himself powerless in their hands. Five 

 or six, seizing hold of one, bundled him at once into the 

 stream, and, in this predicament, he always thought it 

 best policy to give in and swim. The men sometimes 



