CHEAPNESS OF FOOD. 421 



which look extremely graceful on a ground of yellowish 

 grass. Several of these bogs pour forth a solution of iron, 

 which exhibits on its surface the prismatic colours. The 

 level plateaus between the rivers, both east and west of 

 the Moamba, across which we travelled, were less woody 

 than the river glens. The trees on them are scraggy and 

 wide apart. There are also large open grass-covered 

 spaces, with scarcely even a bush. On these rather dreary 

 intervals between the rivers, it was impossible not to be 

 painfully struck with the absence of all animal life. Not 

 a bird was to be seen, except occasionally a tomtit, some 

 of the Sylviadcs and Drymoica, also a black bird (Dicrurus 

 Ludwigii, Smith), common throughout the country. We 

 were gladdened by the voice of birds only near the rivers, 

 and there they are neither numerous nor varied. The 

 Senegal longclaw, however, maintains its place, and is the 

 largest bird seen. We saw a butcher-bird in a trap as we 



gassed. There are remarkably few small animals, they 

 aving been hunted almost to extermination, and few 

 insects except ants, which abound in considerable number 

 and variety. There are scarcely any common flies to be 

 seen, nor are we ever troubled by mosquitoes. 



The air is still, hot, and oppressive ; the intensely bright 

 sunlight glances peacefully on the evergreen forest leaves, 

 and all feel glad when the path comes into the shade. 

 The want of life in the scenery made me long to tread again 

 the banks of the Zambesi, and see the graceful antelopes 

 feeding beside the dark buffaloes and sleek elands. Here 

 hippopotami are known to exist only by their foot- 

 prints on the banks. Not one is ever seen to blow or put 

 his head up at all ; they have learned to breathe in silence, 

 and keep out of sight. We never heard one uttering the 

 snorting sound so common on the Zambesi. 



We crossed two small streams, the Kanesi and Fombeji, 

 before reaching Cabango, a village situated on the banks 

 of the Chihombo. The country was becoming more 

 densely peopled as we proceeded, but it bears no popula- 

 tion compared to what it might easily sustain. Provisions 

 were to be had in great abundance ; a fowl and basket o: 

 meal weighing 20 lbs. were sold for a yard and a half of 

 very inferior cotton-cloth, worth not more than three 

 pence. An idea of the cheapness of food may be formed 

 from the fact, that Captain Neves purchased 380 lbs. of 

 tobacco from the Bangalas, for about two pounds sterling. 



