54 ZEMU VALLEY. Chap. XIX. 



down to Zemu Samdong ; this was, however, scarcely 

 traceable up either stream. My men were better housed 

 here in sheds: and I made several more ineffectual attempts 

 to ascend the valley to the glaciers. The path, gradually 

 vanishing, ran alternately through fir-woods, and over 

 open grassy spots, covered with vegetation, amongst 

 which the gigantic arum was plentiful, whose roots seemed 

 to be the only attraction in this wet and miserable valley. 



On my return one day, I found my people in great 

 alarm, the Phipun having sent word that we were on the 

 Tibet side of the rivers, and that Tibetan troops were 

 coming to plunder my goods, and carry my men into 

 slavery. I assured them he only wanted to frighten them ; 

 that the Cheen soldiers were civil orderly people ; and that 

 as long as Meepo was with us, there was no cause for fear. 

 Fortunately a young musk-deer soon afterwards broke 

 cover close to the tent, and its flesh wonderfully restored 

 their courage : still I was constantly harassed by threats ; 

 some of my people were suffering from cold and bowel com- 

 plaints, and I from rheumatism ; while one fine lad, who 

 came from Dorjiling, was delirious with a violent fever, con- 

 tracted in the lower valleys, which sadly dispirited my party. 



Having been successful in finding a path, I took my 

 tent and a few active lads 1000 feet up the Zemu, camping 

 on a high rock above the forest region, at 12,070 feet, 

 hoping thence to penetrate northwards. I left my collec- 

 tions in the interim at the junction of the rivers, where 

 the sheds and an abundance of firewood were great 

 advantages for preserving the specimens. At this elevation 

 we were quite free from midges and leeches (the latter had 

 not appeared above 11,500 feet), but the weather continued 

 so uniformly rainy and bad, that we could make no pro- 

 gress. I repeatedly followed the river for several miles, 



