CHAPTER XX. 



Camp on Zemu river — Scenery — Falling rocks — Tukcham mountain — Height of 

 glaciers — Botany — Gigantic rhubarb — Insects — Storm — Temperature of rivers 

 — Behaviour of Lachen Phipun — Hostile conduct of Bhoteeas — View from 

 mountains above camp — Descend to Zemu Samdong — Vegetation — Letters 

 from Dorjiling — Arrival of Singtam Soubah — Presents from Rajah — Parties 

 collecting Arum-roots — Insects — Ascend Lachen river — Thakya-zong — 

 Tallum Samdong village — Cottages — Mountains — Plants — Entomology- — ■ 

 Weather — Halo — Diseases — Conduct of Singtam Soubah — His character and 

 illness — Agrees to take me to Kongra Lama — Tungu — Appearance of country — 

 Houses — Poisoning by arum-roots — Yaks and calves — Tibet ponies — Journey 

 to Kongra Lama — Tibetan tents — Butter, curds, and churns — Hospitality — 

 Kinchinjhow and Chomiomo — Magnificent Scenery — Reach Kongra Lama 

 Pass. 



My little tent was pitched in a commanding situation, 

 on a rock fifty feet above the Zemu, overlooking the course 

 of that river to its junction with the Thlonok. The descent 

 of the Zemu in one thousand feet is more precipitous than 

 that of any other river of its size with which I am acquainted 

 in Sikkim, yet immediately above my camp it was more tran- 

 quil than at any part of its course onwards to the plains of 

 India, whether as the Zemu, Lachen or Teesta, On the 

 west bank a fine mountain rose in steep ridges and shrubby 

 banks to 15,000 feet ; on the east a rugged cliff towered 

 above the stream, and from this, huge masses of rock were 

 ever and anon precipitated into the torrent, with a 

 roar that repeatedly spread consternation amongst us. 

 During rains especially, and at night, when the chilled 

 atmospheric currents of air descend, and the sound is not 



