July, 1840. RETURN TO ZEMU SAMDONG. 63 



about 1000 feet above this, there was no snow on the 

 eastern exposures, except in hollows, but on the west 

 slopes it lay in great fields twenty or thirty feet thick ; 

 while to the north, the mountains all appeared destitute of 

 snow, with grassy flanks and rugged tops. 



Drizzling mist, which had shrouded Tukcham all the 

 morning, soon gathered on this mountain, and prevented 

 any prospect from the highest point reached ; but on the 

 ascent I had an excellent view up the Zemu, which opened 

 into a broad grassy valley, where I saw with the glass some 

 wooden sheds, but no cattle or people. To reach these, 

 however, involved crossing the river, which was now impos- 

 sible ; and I reluctantly made up my mind to return on the 

 morrow to Zemu Samdong, and thence try the other river. 



On my descent to the Thlonok, I found that the herba- 

 ceous plants on the terraces had grown fully two feet during 

 the fortnight, and now presented almost a tropical luxu- 

 riance and beauty. Thence I reached Zemu Samdong in 

 one day, and found the vegetation there even more gay and 

 beautiful : the gigantic lily was in full flower, and scenting 

 the air, with the lovely red rose, called " Chirring ' ' by the 

 Tibetans. Neillia was blossoming profusely at my old 

 camping-ground, to which I now returned after a month's 

 absence. 



Soon after my arrival I received letters from Dr. Campbell, 

 who had strongly and repeatedly represented to the Rajah 

 his opinion of the treatment I was receiving ; and this 

 finally brought an explicit answer, to the effect that his 

 orders had been full and peremptory that I should be 

 supplied with provisions, and safely conducted to the 

 frontier. With these came letters on the Rajah's part from 

 Tchebu Lama to the Lachen Phipun, ordering him to take 

 me to the pass, but not specifying its position ; fortunately, 



