148 



LACHEN VALLEY. Chap. XXIII. 



us to clear the road, and give us every facility, but who was 

 very sulky, and undisguisedly rude to Campbell ; he was in 

 fact extremely jealous of the Lama, who held higher authority 

 than he did, and who alone had the Rajah's confidence. 



Our first dav's march was of about ten miles to one of 

 the river-flats, which was covered with wild apple-trees, 

 whose fruit, when stewed with sugar, we found palatable. 

 The Lachen river, though still swollen, was comparatively 

 clear j the rains usually ceasing, or at least moderating, in 

 October : its water was about 5° colder than in the beginning 

 of August. 



During the second day's march we were stopped at the 

 Taktoong river by the want of a bridge, which the Singtam 

 Soubah refused to exert himself to have repaired ; its waters 

 were, however, so fallen, that our now large party soon 

 bridged it with admirable skill. We encamped the second 

 night on Chateng, and the following clay made a long 

 march, crossing the Zemu, and ascending half-way to 

 Tallinn Samdong. The alpine foliage was rapidly changing 

 colour ; and that of the berberry turning scarlet, gave a 

 warm glow to the mountain above the forest. Lamteng 

 village was deserted: turnips were maturing near the 

 houses, and buckwheat on the slope behind ; the latter is a 

 winter-crop at lower elevations, and harvested in April. At 

 Zemu Samdong the willow-leaves were becoming sear and 

 yellow, and the rose-bushes bore enormous scarlet hips, two 

 inches long, and covered with bristles ; they were sweet, 

 and rather good eating. Near Tungu (where we arrived 

 on the 9th) the great Sikkim currant was in fruit; its 

 berries are much larger than the English, and of the 

 same beautiful red colour, but bitter and very acid; 

 they are, however, eaten by the Tibetans, who call them 

 "Kewdemah." 



