154 UPPER LACHEN VALLEY. Chap. XXIII. 



and subtending an angle of 24° 3'. The afternoon was 

 misty, but at 7 p.m. the south-east wind fell, and was 

 immediately succeeded by the biting north return current, 

 which dispelled the fog: hoar-frost sparkled on the ground, 

 and the moon shone full on the snowy head of Kinchin- 

 jhow, over which the milky-way and the broad flashing 

 orbs of the stars formed a jewelled diadem. The night 

 was very windy and cold, though the thermometer fell no 

 lower than 22°, that placed in a polished parabolic reflector 

 to 20°, and another laid on herbage to 17° 5. 



On the 16th we were up early. I felt very anxious 

 about the prospect of our getting round by Donkia pass 

 and Cholamoo, which would enable me to complete the 

 few remaining miles of my long survey of the Teesta river, 

 and which promised immense results in the views I should 

 obtain of the country, and of the geology and botany of 

 these lofty snowless regions. Campbell, though extremely 

 solicitous to obtain permission from the Tibetan guard, 

 (who were waiting for us on the frontier), was never- 

 theless bound by his own official position to yield at 

 once to their wishes, should they refuse us a passage. 



The sun rose on our camp at 7 '30 a.m., when the north 

 wind fell ; and within an hour afterwards the temperature 

 had risen to 45°. Having had our sticks * warmed and 

 handed to us, we started on ponies, accompanied by 

 the Lama only, to hold a parley with the Tibetans ; 

 ordering the rest of the party to follow at their leisure. 

 We had not proceeded far when we were joined by two 

 Tibetan Sepoys, who, on our reaching the pass, bellowed 



It was an invariable custom of our Lepcha and Tibetan attendants, to 

 warm the handles of our sticks in cold weather, before starting on our daily 

 marches. This is one of many little instances I could adduce, of their thought- 

 fulness and attention to the smallest comforts of the stranger and wanderer in 

 their lands. 



