Oct. 1849. CHOLAMOO LAKES. 157 



near the edge, which was covered with tufts of short grass, 

 was whitened with effloresced carbonate of soda. Here 

 were some square stone enclosures two feet high, used as 

 pens, and for pitching tents in ; within them I gathered 

 some unripe barley. 



Beyond this I recognised a hill of which I had taken 

 bearings from Donkia pass, and a few miles further, on 

 rounding a great spur of Kinchinjunga, I arrived in sight 

 of Cholamoo lakes, with the Donkia mountain rearing its 

 stupendous precipices of rock and ice on the east. My pony 

 was knocked up, and I felt very giddy from the exertion and 

 elevation ; I had broken his bridle, and so led him on by 

 my plaid for the last few miles to the banks of the 

 lake ; and there, with the pleasant sound of the waters 

 rippling at my feet, I yielded for a few moments to those 

 emotions of gratified ambition which, being unalloyed by 

 selfish considerations for the future, become springs of 

 happiness during the remainder of one's life. 



The landscape about Cholamoo lakes was simple in its 

 elements, stern and solemn ; and though my solitary 

 situation rendered it doubly impressive to me, I doubt 

 whether the world contains any scene w T ith more sublime 

 associations than this calm sheet of water, 17,000 feet 

 above the sea, with the shadows of mountains 22,000 to 

 24,000 feet high, sleeping on its bosom. 



There was much short grass about the lake, on which large 

 antelopes, " Chiru" {Antilope Hodgsoni)* and deer, "Goa" 

 (Procapra picticaudata, Hodgson), were feeding. There 

 were also many slate-coloured hares with white rumps 



* I found the horns of this animal on the south side of the Donkia pass, 

 but I never saw a live one except in Tibet. The Procapra is described by Mr. 

 Hodgson, "Bengal As. Soc. Jour., 1846, p. 338," and is introduced into the cut 

 at p. 139. 



