196 TUMLOONG. Chap. XXV. 



lofty ridge. Campbell started at noon, and I waited 

 behind with Meepo, who wished me to see the Rajah's 

 dwelling, to which we therefore ascended; but, to my 

 guide's chagrin, we were met and turned back by a scribe, 

 or clerk, of the Amlah. We were followed by a messenger, 

 apologising and begging me to return ; but I had already 

 descended 1000 feet, and felt no inclination to reascend 

 the hill, especially as there did not appear to be 

 anything worth seeing. Soon after I had overtaken 

 Campbell, he was accosted by an excessively dirty fellow, 

 who desired him to return for a conference with the 

 Amlah ; this was of course declined, but, at the same 

 time, Campbell expressed his readiness to receive the 

 Amlah at our halting place. 



The Ryott flows in a very tropical gorge 2000 feet above 

 the sea ; from the proximity of the snowy mountains, its 

 temperature was only 64° 3. Thence the ascent is very 

 steep to Tumloong, where we took up our quarters at a 

 rest-house called Rungpo (alt. 6008 feet). This road is 

 well kept, and hence onwards is traversed yearly by the 

 Rajah on his way to his summer residence of Choombi, two 

 marches beyond the Chola pass ; whither he is taken to 

 avoid the Sikkim rains, which are peculiarly disagreeable 

 to Tibetans. Rungpo commands a most beautiful view 

 northwards, across the valley, of the royal residence, 

 temples* goompas, hamlets, and cultivation, scattered over 

 spurs that emerge from the forest, studded below with 

 tree-ferns and plantains, and backed by black pine-woods 

 and snowy mountains. In the evening the Amlah arrived 

 to confer with Campbell ; at first there was a proposal of 

 turning us out of the house, in which there was plenty of 

 room besides, but as we declined to move, except by his 

 Highness's order, they put up in houses close by. 



