(5 BURDWAN. Chap. I. 



starting, but soon the novelty wears off, and the dis- 

 comforts are so numerous, that it is pronounced, at best, 

 a barbarous conveyance. The greedy cry and gestures of 

 the bearers, when, on changing, they break a fitful sleep 

 by poking a torch in your face, and vociferating " Buck- 

 sheesh, Sahib ; " their discontent at the most liberal 

 largesse, and the sluggishness of the next set who want 

 bribes, put the traveller out of patience with the natives. 

 The dust when the slides are open, and the stifling heat 

 when shut during a shower, are conclusive against the 

 vehicle, and on getting out with aching bones and giddy 

 head at the journey's end, I shook the dust from my person, 

 and wished never to see a palkee again. 



On the following morning I was passing through the 

 straggling villages close to Burdwan, consisting of native 

 hovels by the road side, with mangos and figs planted near 

 them, and palms waving over their roofs. Crossing the 

 nearly dry bed of the Damooda, I was set down at Mr. 

 M'Intosh's (the magistrate of the district), and never more 

 thoroughly enjoyed a hearty welcome and a breakfast. 



In the evening we visited the Rajah of Burdwan's palace 

 and pleasure-grounds, where I had the first glimpse of 

 oriental gardening : the roads were generally raised, 

 running through rice fields, now dry and hard, and 

 bordered with trees of Jack, Bamboo, Melia, Casuarina, 

 &c. Tanks were the prominent features : chains of them, 

 fall of Indian water-lilies, being fringed with rows of the 

 fan-palm, and occasionally the Indian date. Close^ to the 

 house was a rather good menagerie, where I saw, amongst 

 other animals, a pair of kangaroos in high health and 

 condition, the female with young in her pouch. Before 

 dark I was again in my palkee, and hurrying onwards. 

 The night was cool and clear, very different from the damp 



