128 DORJILING. Chap. V. 



An attentive examination of the Lepcha in one respect 

 entirely contradicts our preconceived notions of a moun- 

 taineer, as he is timid, peaceful, and no brawler ; qualities 

 which are all the more remarkable from contrasting so 

 strongly with those of his neighbours to the east and west: 

 of whom the Ghorkas are brave and warlike to a proverb, 

 and the Bhotanese quarrelsome, cowardly, and cruel. A 

 group of Lepchas is exceedingly picturesque. They are of 

 short stature — four feet eight inches to five feet — rather 

 broad in the chest, and with muscular arms, but small 

 hands and slender wrists.* The face is broad, flat, and of 

 eminently Tartar character, flat-nosed and oblique-eyed, with 

 no beard, and little moustache ; the complexion is sallow, or 

 often a clear olive ; the hair is collected into an immense 

 tail, plaited flat or round. The lower limbs are powerfully 

 developed, befitting genuine mountaineers : the feet are 

 small. Though never really handsome, and very womanish 

 in the cast of countenance, they have invariably a mild, 

 frank, and even engaging expression, which I have in vain 

 sought to analyse, and which is perhaps due more to the 

 absence of anything unpleasing, than to the presence of direct 

 grace or beauty. In like manner, the girls are often very 

 engaging to look upon, though without one good feature • 

 they are all smiles and good-nature ; and the children are 

 frank, lively, laughing urchins. The old women are 

 thorough hags. Indolence, when left to themselves, is 

 their besetting sin ; they detest any fixed employment, 

 and their foulness of person and garments renders them 

 disagreeable inmates : in this rainy climate they are 

 supportable out of doors. Though fond of bathing when 



* I have seldom been able to insert my own wrist (which is smaller than the 

 average) into the wooden guard which the Lepcha wears on his left, as a protection 

 against the bow-string : it is a curved ring of wood with an opening at one side, 

 through which, by a little stretching, the wrist is inserted. 



