CHAPTER VIII. 



Difficulty ill procuring leave to enter Sikkim — Obtain permission to travel in East 

 Nepal — Arrangements — Coolies— Stores — Servants — Personal equipment — 

 Mode of travelling — Leave Dorjiling — Goong ridge — Behaviour of Bhotan 

 coolies — Nepal frontier — Myong valley — Ham — Sikkim massacre — Culti- 

 vation — Nettles — Camp at Nanki on Tonglo — Bhotan coolies run away — View 

 of Chumulari — Nepal peaks to west — Sakkiazung — Buceros — Road to 

 Wallanchoon — Oaks — Scarcity of water — Singular view of mountain-valleys 

 — Encampment — My tent and its furniture — Evening occupations — Dunkotah 

 — Crossridge of Sakkiazung — Yews — Silver-firs — View of Tambur valley — 

 Pemmi river — Pebbly terraces — Geology —Holy springs — Enormous trees — 

 Luculia gratissima — Khawa river, rocks of — Arrive at Tambur — Shingle and 

 gravel terraces — Natives, indolence of — Canoe ferry — Votive offerings — Bad 

 road — Temperature, &c. — Chingtam village, view from — Mywa river and 

 Guola — House — Boulders — Chain -bridge — Meepo, arrival of — Fevers. 



Owing to the unsatisfactory nature of our relations with 

 the Sikkim authorities, to which I have elsewhere alluded, 

 my endeavours to procure leave to penetrate further beyond 

 the Dorjiling territory than Tonglo, were attended with 

 some trouble and delay. 



In the autumn of 1848, the Governor- General commu- 

 nicated with the Rajah, desiring him to grant me honourable 

 and safe escort through his dominions ; but this was at 

 once met by a decided refusal, apparently admitting of no 

 compromise. Pending further negociations, which Dr. 

 Campbell felt sure would terminate satisfactorily, though 

 perhaps too late for my purpose, he applied to the Nepal 

 Rajah for permission for me to visit the Tibetan passes, 

 west of Kinchinjunga ; proposing in the meanwhile to 



