Nov. 1843. GUOBAH OF WALLANCHOON. 217 



all the active duties of the dairy and house. They live 

 very happily together, fighting being almost unknown. 



Soon after my arrival 1 was waited on by the Guobah (or 

 head-man), a tall, good-looking person, dressed in a purple 

 woollen robe, with good pearl and coral ear and finger- 

 rings, and a broad ivory ring over the left thumb,* as a guard 

 when using the bow ; he wore a neat thick white felt cap, 

 with the border turned up, and a silk tassel on the top ; 

 this he removed with both hands and held before him, 

 bowing three times on entering. He was followed by a 

 crowd, some of whom were his own people, and brought a 

 present of a kid, fowls, rice, and eggs, and some spikenard 

 roots (Nardostachys Jatamansi, a species of valerian 

 smelling strongly of patchouli), which is a very favourite 

 perfume. After paying some compliments, he showed me 

 round the village. During my walk, I found that I had a 

 good many objections to overrule before I could proceed 

 to the Wallanchoon pass, nearly two days' journey to 

 the northward. In the first place, the Guobah disputed 

 the Nepal rajah's authority to pass me through his 

 dominions ; and besides the natural jealousy of these people 

 when intruded upon, they have very good reasons for con- 

 cealing the amount of revenue they raise from their position, 

 and for keeping up the delusion that they alone can endure 

 the excessive climate of these regions, or undergo the 

 hardships and toil of the salt trade. My passport said 

 nothing about the passes ; my people, and especially the 

 Ghorkas, detested the keen, cold, and cutting wind ; at 

 My wa Guola, I had been persuaded by the Havildar to put 

 off providing snow-boots and blankets, on the assurance 

 that I should easily get them at Walloong, which I now 



* A broad ring of this material, agate, or chalcedony, is a mark of rank here, as 

 amongst the Man-choos, and throughout Central Asia. 



